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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Tahoe
6387 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:04 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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My suburban electrical system toasted last night. It was ok the night before. The only problem before that is the clock and radio reset itself once awhile. There were all sort of buzzing and noise coming out the radio, dash, the scan tool port when I try to start the truck. The noise continue even I took the key out and open the door. About 30 seconds, the battery is completely dead. The truck was towed to dealer this morning. I suspect the reset of the radio and clock is a indication of electrical problem somewhere in the truck. |
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| I have a 2000 Tahoe, does anyone notice that when the fog lights are on, they seem to rattle. Its almost as if they are attached with rubber. They are not very stationary. Has anyone added anything to keep these from moving around when you hit bumps in the road? | |
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Thanks i have manual seats so the adjustments should be ok. What color interior and seat covers do you have? I have graphite (cloth) interior Thanks again Ryan |
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The 2000 service manual covers your wiring on Page 8-976. The component locator is on page 8-977 and 8-978.The component views which shows electrical connections to the mirror is on page 8-979. The good stuff - Diagnostic Aids are found on Pages 8-990 through 8-992. Repair Instructions - How to remove the old physical mirror and mount a new one is covered on Page 8-993 thru 8-995. Tried to find your two conditions - Display of word REC and condition where-in all florescent segments become illuminated. Could not find either. Seven wires are connected to the mirror. IGN 1 a 10 amp fuse circuit feeds power to Pin 1 A black ground wire is connected to Pin 2 A Dark Green/White wire connects to Pin 6 A Black/White wire connects to Pin 7 The above two wires on Pins 6 & 7 are wired to an outside temperature sensor. A Lt.Green wire connects to Pin 3 The above wire has battery only when the back-up switch is on. A Gray wire connects to outside power mirror wiring is on pin 4. Circuit marked DIM FD. A Pink wire connects to outside power mirror wiring is on pin 5. Circuit marked DIM RTN. VOLT & OHM METER TESTS: There are 2 1/2 pages of tests with a voltmeter and ohmmeter. Again neither of your two conditions are listed. PLEASE advise me - I`ll be very glad to produce a step by step listing of those tests or fax you something if you desire. I don`t remember if you have a 2000 service manual or not. Don 434 |
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| I've noticed that as well...kinda annoying. I think it's really only visible from behind the wheel, but when looking at them head-on they're not really an issue. I too would like to know if there is a kit or any ingenious ideas out there on how to make it more secure... | |
Baby Yukon is getting worked on. I guess the "check engine warning" problem is eluding them at the moment. Techs were feverishly looking through all their manuals trying to find an answer. We'll see how they do with that whole list of stuff I gave them...o-boy they weren't happy to see it...especially on a Friday!  They thought I was coming in for one thing. I heard the "it's a truck!" line a few times, but they are still trying to fix stuff...I'll give that to them. They have good people there. The main problem is GM my service rep said. They can't touch the computer, and the computer is most of the problem. They're able to update the programming...but otherwise they're locked out or told not to touch it. I'll tell you one thing...they need to resurrect the vacuum transmission. It would seem that they would run much smoother then. I’ll post my results later when I get it back Monday...I think.
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| The poron system I got had 3 sensors. I placed the center sensor just above the hitch receptacle(screwed into the plastic bumper cover). I placed the other 2 under the bumper even with where the plastic cover ends(had to drill 2 tiny holes into the metal for each sensor) It's actually sensor hangers that get attached. I also left them slightly behind the edge of the bumper so that they don't get bumped while loading/unloading the vehicle. I ran the sensor wires inside the bumper( there are multiple openings in the bumper) and then up through the rear taillight area. (the tailight housing comes off with 2 screws) I took off the black vent-looking cover above the taillights and then threaded the wires through the hole the vent is in and replaced the vent, vent cover, taillight etc. This gets the wires into the vehicle near the jack storage area/subwoofer area. I removed the cover over the jack etc. and the trim cover that is above that. I mounted the power unit above the jack. The power wires just attach to the backup light wires with clips. The speaker, I just stuck to the trim along the back window. | |
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Picked up our 2001 Yukon SLT about two weeks and love it…absolutely no problems, however, there is something I don’t understand. From page 2-15 of the 2001 Yukon Owners Manual. "Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a VALID KEY. If a CORRECT KEY is not used or the ignition lock cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled." Because we have a need for a third ignition key I decided to spend a buck fifty and have a key made at our local hardware rather than the Dealer (I had heard they are very expensive). To my surprise the cheap key works. This seems to be contrary to page 2-15. Just because the cheap key works today I don’t necessary want to get out in the middle of nowhere and have Passlock determine I’m not using a VALID key. Can anyone explain Passlock? DON454, does the Service Manual cover Passlock and what a VALID or CORRECT key would be. I have heard some auto manufactures do use special keys coded with embedded chips in both the key and cylinder. DON 454, hope you are up and around soon and thanks to you and all the others that have taken the time to make this forum interesting and informative. Zzack |
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According to the 2000 Service Manual - Page 0-29 reads : The Master and the Valet key contain Transponders that are read by the theft deterrent system when the keys are used in the ignition. Will read the section more fully and report back. From memory - dangerous with me - I think most any correctly cut key will start the vehicle BUT without the transponder being read - the theft deterrent system will shortly kill the fuel pump. I think that if you take the original key with you - laid on rear floor - and start the vehicle, you will find a shut down condition in a very short distance. Then you can restart with the original GM key and return home. One thing I don`t know is : how far away from the ignition can the transponder be read. To be sure don`t put in in your pants pocket or shirt pocket while using your bogus key. Put it as far back in the vehicle as poss.Will be back in a hour with full details - as far as the book is concerned. Thanks all for the thoughts - it`s coming along. Don. |
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I ordered a Mobil 1 oil filter on-line for my 2000 Tahoe 5.3L and received a M1-201. Before I installed it, I did some checking and it looks as if the correct Mobil 1 oil filter for the 2000 Tahoe is a M1-206. Can anyone confirm which is the correct filter? Thanks, Dave |
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