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Chevy Tahoe

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#108 of 6387 Seagrave... by petros22 Dec 09, 2000 (6:49 am)
I've noticed that as well...kinda annoying. I think it's really only visible from behind the wheel, but when looking at them head-on they're not really an issue. I too would like to know if there is a kit or any ingenious ideas out there on how to make it more secure...
#109 of 6387 Got my loaner... by petros22 Dec 09, 2000 (7:04 am)
Baby Yukon is getting worked on. I guess the "check engine warning" problem is eluding them at the moment. Techs were feverishly looking through all their manuals trying to find an answer. We'll see how they do with that whole list of stuff I gave them...o-boy they weren't happy to see it...especially on a Friday! They thought I was coming in for one thing. I heard the "it's a truck!" line a few times, but they are still trying to fix stuff...I'll give that to them. They have good people there. The main problem is GM my service rep said. They can't touch the computer, and the computer is most of the problem. They're able to update the programming...but otherwise they're locked out or told not to touch it. I'll tell you one thing...they need to resurrect the vacuum transmission. It would seem that they would run much smoother then. I’ll post my results later when I get it back Monday...I think.
#110 of 6387 Haycar Re:Sensor placement by pep4 Dec 09, 2000 (2:28 pm)
The poron system I got had 3 sensors. I placed the center sensor just above the hitch receptacle(screwed into the plastic bumper cover). I placed the other 2 under the bumper even with where the plastic cover ends(had to drill 2 tiny holes into the metal for each sensor) It's actually sensor hangers that get attached. I also left them slightly behind the edge of the bumper so that they don't get bumped while loading/unloading the vehicle. I ran the sensor wires inside the bumper( there are multiple openings in the bumper) and then up through the rear taillight area. (the tailight housing comes off with 2 screws) I took off the black vent-looking cover above the taillights and then threaded the wires through the hole the vent is in and replaced the vent, vent cover, taillight etc. This gets the wires into the vehicle near the jack storage area/subwoofer area. I removed the cover over the jack etc. and the trim cover that is above that. I mounted the power unit above the jack. The power wires just attach to the backup light wires with clips. The speaker, I just stuck to the trim along the back window.
#111 of 6387 Passlock??? by zzack Dec 09, 2000 (8:58 pm)
Picked up our 2001 Yukon SLT about two weeks and love it…absolutely no problems, however, there is something I don’t understand. From page 2-15 of the 2001 Yukon Owners Manual. "Passlock is a passive theft-deterrent system. Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a VALID KEY. If a CORRECT KEY is not used or the ignition lock cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled." Because we have a need for a third ignition key I decided to spend a buck fifty and have a key made at our local hardware rather than the Dealer (I had heard they are very expensive). To my surprise the cheap key works. This seems to be contrary to page 2-15. Just because the cheap key works today I don’t necessary want to get out in the middle of nowhere and have Passlock determine I’m not using a VALID key. Can anyone explain Passlock? DON454, does the Service Manual cover Passlock and what a VALID or CORRECT key would be. I have heard some auto manufactures do use special keys coded with embedded chips in both the key and cylinder. DON 454, hope you are up and around soon and thanks to you and all the others that have taken the time to make this forum interesting and informative. Zzack
#112 of 6387 zzack - Passlock-Keys with transponders? by don434 Dec 10, 2000 (12:24 am)
According to the 2000 Service Manual - Page 0-29 reads : The Master and the Valet key contain Transponders that are read by the theft deterrent system when the keys are used in the ignition. Will read the section more fully and report back. From memory - dangerous with me - I think most any correctly cut key will start the vehicle BUT without the transponder being read - the theft deterrent system will shortly kill the fuel pump. I think that if you take the original key with you - laid on rear floor - and start the vehicle, you will find a shut down condition in a very short distance. Then you can restart with the original GM key and return home. One thing I don`t know is : how far away from the ignition can the transponder be read. To be sure don`t put in in your pants pocket or shirt pocket while using your bogus key. Put it as far back in the vehicle as poss.Will be back in a hour with full details - as far as the book is concerned. Thanks all for the thoughts - it`s coming along. Don.
#113 of 6387 Correct Mobil 1 Oil Filter for 2000 5.3L by going2wait41 Dec 10, 2000 (1:46 am)
I ordered a Mobil 1 oil filter on-line for my 2000 Tahoe 5.3L and received a M1-201. Before I installed it, I did some checking and it looks as if the correct Mobil 1 oil filter for the 2000 Tahoe is a M1-206. Can anyone confirm which is the correct filter? Thanks, Dave
#114 of 6387 Fog light Mounts by gonefishin Dec 10, 2000 (3:48 am)
Not sure we can assign all of the wiggle to GM saving a few bucks. These are in a very vulnerable area. With these flexible mounts you can push mine a few inches and they spring back to where they started. Probably would be fixing a lot of bent mounts if they were rigid.
#115 of 6387 Don434 - a question if you don't mind by campo57 Dec 10, 2000 (5:22 am)
Hope things are getting better for ya! If you could and it's not too much trouble, could you look up the torque spec for the body mounts? I just installed a set of running boards and had to place a running board mount on the body mount. I cranked the screw down but not too much as I didn't have the spec. thanks! Campo57
#116 of 6387 Passlock by dave5319 Dec 10, 2000 (6:21 am)
I to had a key cut at homedepot for $1.50 and it worked fine for 50 miles or so. It was explained to me that as long as you use a key that fits and starts the truck there is no problem, Its when someone tries to use a different key or pull the ignition switch is when the fuel will be cut off. There is no chip in these keys like the older models, evering thing is in the ignition switch. Someone awhile ago posted a site that explains this, and shows it in detal. So if the dealer is charging let say $25 for a key your being ripped off. If any one tries to hot wire chances are that they will not be able to start the truck because they also now have to engage the fuel pump which is a separate circuit in the ignition switch. If I can find that site that explains this I will post it. Dave...
#117 of 6387 CWAYNE by cwayne Dec 10, 2000 (3:47 pm)
WE HAVE HAD OUR NEW 2001 YUKON NOW ABOUT 2 WEEKS IT IS REALLY A NICE TRUCK. THE ONLY THING AT THIS POINT THAT WE DO NOT LIKE ARE THE RUNNING BOARDS. THE BOARDS ARE WIDE ENOUGH BUT THE BODY BULGES OUT OVER HALF OF THE BOARD SO THAT WHEN EXITING A SHORT PERSON (MY WIFE 5'0") WHO HAS TO USE THE RUNNING BOARDS MUST BE REALLY CAREFUL NOT TO SLIP. I AM THINKING THAT I MIGHT TRY TO FINE A WIDER RUNNING BOARD IF ONE WOULD BE AVAILABLE.               CWAYNE

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