You are here: Forums SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Tahoe

Chevy Tahoe

6387 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 7:04 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, SUV

Messages Page 6 of 639 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... 639 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

#49 of 6387 rear windows, and lights by 00tahoels Dec 06, 2000 (1:58 am)
I asked this question in another forum dedicated to Tahoes. It seems, as with most of you, the rear window stopped working on my truck, big surprise. Ok, after reading all of these posts, I expected it. One thing I don't understand, the lights in the truck don't turn on when unlocked via the keyless-remote. I was told about the dome-overide, which was the first thing I checked, that wasn't the cause. Sometimes the lights will turn on, and other times, they won't. No interior lights, work, however all the ext. ones do. After the car is running for a while, the lights turn on...weird. Thnx and sorry for the inconvenience
#50 of 6387 Window part # by led Dec 06, 2000 (3:59 am)
The window part number is -SOP 15757400 Window Regulator- SOP stands for Special Order Part. Hope this helps.
#51 of 6387 Mileage by onalaska Dec 06, 2000 (4:20 am)
2000 Yukon 5.3L, 3.42 with 18,900 miles and 459 hours on the engine for avg. of 41.18 miles per hour. The steering wheel locks as soon as the key is turned off and pulled out of the lock. Steven
#52 of 6387 Don434 - re: Rearf view mirror adjustment by fcornay Dec 06, 2000 (4:31 am)
Don,        Does your access to technical info extend to adjustment of rear view mirrors?        The rear view mirror on the driver's side of my 2001 Suburban will not angle out far enough to avoid a blind spot on the left side. With the left cheek (facial) just brushing up against the drivers side window, the rear view mirror will not slue out far enough to look straight behind the vehicle - much less look into the adjoining lane.       Is there a mechanical adjustment that will permit the range of motion of the rear view mirror to be altered?       Your counsel and advice will be appreciated.       Sincerely,          fcornay
#53 of 6387 Re:Post 56 (fcornay) Drivers Outside Mirror by don434 Dec 06, 2000 (5:28 am)
Every now and then I feel I must remind people that I don`t have a 2000 or 2001 vehicle - so some real owners will be the finial reference. I`m just a nut who enjoys learning about general design for my 2002 Tahoe or Yukon. Will certainly review my 2000 service manual for remarks concerning mirror adjustment and report back tomorrow. My old 1992 electric mirror in my suburban had a small electric motor which turned a threaded rod to move the mirror. If someone walking by my suburban walked into the mirror quite forcefully they would jam the mirror to one extreme end of rotation. Then the normal electrical positioning switch could not move the mirror to where I could observe the rear of my truck and most of the next lane. The view I observed exactly matched what you describe. If I remember correctly I gently placed my palm of my hand to the right and left mirror edges. I then pressed the mirror on the outside left edge until I heard three or four clicks as the gear was reset. PLEASE DON`T try this YET. While I read my manual tomorrow morning some of of good buddies can respond. Maybe someone else has had need to reset the mirror adjustment threaded rod. I hope this makes sense to you. Don 434
#54 of 6387 Window Regulator Part Number - NEW ( led ) by don434 Dec 06, 2000 (5:57 am)
Hope I`m not being a pain in the rear but I think I remember cwmartin advising me that each rear window motor assembly ( regulator ) has a different part number. Could you please recheck your service sheet to be sure if they listed one or two different part numbers. They may be just one digit apart. Please advise. Don434
#55 of 6387 Hypertech Followup... by petros22 Dec 06, 2000 (6:38 am)
Well, I gave Hypertech a call and they said I had the older "revision" of the 5.3L #30003 model. So, I'm sending it back and they're either going to exchange it or reprogram it. I got my "RGA" number, whatever that stands for...I'm use to RMA. I also got the warranty under my name. The guy I got it from never registered it with Hypertech, and he made sure that it was put back to stock before he sold it. As far as the Hypertech PowerStat 160 goes, they usually cost $49 including the housing, etc. for the new Vortecs. The older model Vortecs without the housing cost around $29 I believe. All around, it was a pretty good deal considering he only had it for a couple months or so and only used it once...everything looked brand new. The only thing missing was one sticker. No tax, just shipping at cost. The best price I've seen for the HPPIII is $299, but usually $349 elsewhere it seems. So getting both for $331 wasn't too shabby. If it weren’t for the reserve set by the other bidder, I would have gotten it for less. I just out-bid her by $5 with 15 seconds remaining...talk about adrenaline rushing. The seller started at $220 for both...it ended at $325. All around, I'm happy with the purchase as long as this reprogramming works. Anybody get the Hypertech PowerStat? How did the installation go if so?
#56 of 6387 Figman... by petros22 Dec 06, 2000 (6:47 am)
True...darn termites...I could have used that crate! Don't get me wrong...I love the vehicle! I'm just really "anal" when it comes to the quality...especially for $35K+. It seems they could have done a better job, yet it seems that I would have had even more problems if I got one of those old model Yukons...the new ones are so much better! I'd feel much better if I won that 2001 Denali sweepstakes for sure! he he!
#57 of 6387 Hypertech..... by selman Dec 06, 2000 (2:15 pm)
Glad the purchase worked out. You have to excuse my skepticism about internet auction purchases. Let us know what kind of mileage/performance improvement you feel once you have it all installed. I would welcome some additional torque between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Maybe I'm just not used to a V8 that makes noticeably more torque and HP up in the RPM's. Does the 5.3L use a reverse flow type cooling system?
#58 of 6387 Re:Post 56 (fcornay) Drivers Outside Mirror Adjustment by don434 Dec 06, 2000 (3:21 pm)
A gentle hand or talented mechanic is required so as not to break the mirror face, electric motor, push rod, or housing. $$$. I reviewed the eleven pages in the service manual- no-where does the manual talk to a misadjusted mirror.In my humble opinion either the factory misadjusted the mirror or someone has struck it hard enough to drive the threaded rod out of it`s normal adjustment range. I also checked a copy of the 2001 owners manual for Yukon,Yukon XL. It does not cover your problem.The pictorials relating to mirror replacement in the service manual does NOT show the positioning or motor views.I guess your problem is Not supposed to occur - I guess it`s just you. JUST KIDDING!! Back to the little I know - have learned. On page 8-1210 (mirror face replacement) it mentions that the mechanic can gently insert his fingers as far as possible behind the mirror back toward the CENTER of the back.He then can use sufficient force in order to disengage the snap-fits from the adjuster mechanism and pulling the mirror back out of the housing. Heated mirrors will now also require the un-pluging of the two electrical connections from the mirror back. With the mirror out of the way - on my 1992 Suburban - you can now observe the nylon threaded rod with top ball with two rods sticking out of the balls center. This ball snaps into the mirror back upon reassembly on my 1992. I don`t know for sure what your drive mechanism looks like.You may or may not have a pined ball as your connection. Again I hate to even present my views of A WAY to cure your problem for fear of damage. On my 1992 I now remember that the first mirror adjustment I just pushed firmly on the mirror face half way between center and the left extreme edge. I heard several clicking sounds as the threaded rod was forced back thru the motor mechanism. This is what must happen when someone walks into your mirror - just in the opposite direction. If you do remove the mirror face as described on page 8-1210 you can see the threaded adjustment rod and - rather than force it thru the motor drive mechanism - you can screw it inward far enough to allow the mirror to travel further to the left. Maybe about 1/8" may be enough. To reassemble the mirror back the mechanic is instructed to: Look for damage to any parts. Make sure that the mirror back and the glass sub-assembly have all of the snap fit hooks in place. For heated mirrors replug the two electrical connectors to the back of the mirror back. Line up the mirror back snap-fit hooks with the adjuster mechanism ramps. Use the palm of your hand on the center of the mirror glass to GENTLY press the mirror back into the adjuster mechanism. The palm of your hand can be used to rotate the glass until the snap hooks engage. Last item is to test for proper mirror retention by placing a large piece of foam on the ground and use your hand to slap the top center of the housing. It should not fall out. I wish there was a simpler way to do this but without printed documentation this is all I have to offer. Please respond if you are a mechanic who knows more about this adjustment need. Don434

Messages Page 6 of 639 1 ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 ... 639 Prev Next Last

Go To Msg # Search This Discussion

You are here: Forums SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Chevy Tahoe