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Chevy Tahoe

6383 messages,  Last post on Nov 17, 2009 at 4:38 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Tahoe, SUV


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#56 of 6383
Figman... by petros22
Dec 06, 2000 (6:47 am)
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True...darn termites...I could have used that crate! Don't get me wrong...I love the vehicle! I'm just really "anal" when it comes to the quality...especially for $35K+. It seems they could have done a better job, yet it seems that I would have had even more problems if I got one of those old model Yukons...the new ones are so much better! I'd feel much better if I won that 2001 Denali sweepstakes for sure! he he!
#57 of 6383
Hypertech..... by selman
Dec 06, 2000 (2:15 pm)
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Glad the purchase worked out. You have to excuse my skepticism about internet auction purchases. Let us know what kind of mileage/performance improvement you feel once you have it all installed. I would welcome some additional torque between 1500 and 2000 RPM. Maybe I'm just not used to a V8 that makes noticeably more torque and HP up in the RPM's.
Does the 5.3L use a reverse flow type cooling system?
#58 of 6383
Re:Post 56 (fcornay) Drivers Outside Mirror Adjustment by don434
Dec 06, 2000 (3:21 pm)
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A gentle hand or talented mechanic is required so as not to break the mirror face, electric motor, push rod, or housing. $$$.
I reviewed the eleven pages in the service manual- no-where does the manual talk to a misadjusted mirror.In my humble opinion either the factory misadjusted the mirror or someone has struck it hard enough to drive the threaded rod out of it`s normal adjustment range.


I also checked a copy of the 2001 owners manual for Yukon,Yukon XL. It does not cover your problem.The pictorials relating to mirror replacement in the service manual does NOT show the positioning or motor views.I guess your problem is Not supposed to occur - I guess it`s just you. JUST KIDDING!!


Back to the little I know - have learned. On page 8-1210 (mirror face replacement) it mentions that the mechanic can gently insert his fingers as far as possible behind the mirror back toward the CENTER of the back.He then can use sufficient force in order to disengage the snap-fits from the adjuster mechanism and pulling the mirror back out of the housing. Heated mirrors will now also require the un-pluging of the two electrical connections from the mirror back. With the mirror out of the way - on my 1992 Suburban - you can now observe the nylon threaded rod with top ball with two rods sticking out of the balls center. This ball snaps into the mirror back upon reassembly on my 1992. I don`t know for sure what your drive mechanism looks like.You may or may not have a pined ball as your connection.


Again I hate to even present my views of A WAY to cure your problem for fear of damage.
On my 1992 I now remember that the first mirror adjustment I just pushed firmly on the mirror face half way between center and the left extreme edge. I heard several clicking sounds as the threaded rod was forced back thru the motor mechanism. This is what must happen when someone walks into your mirror - just in the opposite direction.


If you do remove the mirror face as described on page 8-1210 you can see the threaded adjustment rod and - rather than force it thru the motor drive mechanism - you can screw it inward far enough to allow the mirror to travel further to the left. Maybe about 1/8" may be enough.


To reassemble the mirror back the mechanic is instructed to:
Look for damage to any parts.
Make sure that the mirror back and the glass sub-assembly have all of the snap fit hooks in place.
For heated mirrors replug the two electrical connectors to the back of the mirror back.
Line up the mirror back snap-fit hooks with the adjuster mechanism ramps.
Use the palm of your hand on the center of the mirror glass to GENTLY press the mirror back into the adjuster mechanism. The palm of your hand can be used to rotate the glass until the snap hooks engage.
Last item is to test for proper mirror retention by placing a large piece of foam on the ground and use your hand to slap the top center of the housing. It should not fall out.
I wish there was a simpler way to do this but without printed documentation this is all I have to offer.
Please respond if you are a mechanic who knows more about this adjustment need.
Don434
#59 of 6383
Driver mirror adjustment...... by subliminal
Dec 06, 2000 (4:43 pm)
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I have been driving trucks for 20 years and the 00 Sub driver mirror does not adjust to where you want it to be (which is also where I want it to be). I believe it is a function of 1) the narrow (IMHO) height of the mirror and 2) it does not adjust "out" far enough.


A convex spot mirror helps alot (I have always used these on both sides of all my trucks anyway, helps you see the motocycles especially). I use a 1 inch on the driver side, stuck on the right side of the lowest point on the mirror (ends up almost in the bottom middle on the Sub).


Good luck,


Subliminal
#60 of 6383
Interior Temp control by thbarrett
Dec 06, 2000 (4:55 pm)
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Well, after owning the 01 tahoe for 12 days, it was in the shop for 6 days. I have one with the new climate control. On manual the heat won't maintain what I set it at. As soon as some warm air comes in, the unit than reverts to cool air. Anyone else had any trouble?


It was nice of GM to give me a rental, but the rental was something most of us would not want to drive. I think the engine on the rental was from a singer sewing machine. After the 4th try to fix the problem and changing out everything, I called G.M. for a case #. I was lucky to be able to meet with the service Mgr. and the district guru. They both agreed there was a problem. When I started talking about a BUY BACK, you would have thought they were both on the olympic back stroking team.


Come this Friday they are flying in a super guru tech from Michigan to look at my problem, and if I believe that one I should be looking to buy a bridge somewhere in Az. Will let you all know what happens. Here in Ca. it has already qualified for the buy back lemon law, and I plan on pressing that issue if they can't fix it this next time. Sorry for the long post, but needless to say I am &$#.


Tom
#61 of 6383
remote starter installation by davecrook1
Dec 06, 2000 (7:39 pm)
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The wife wants a remote starter installed on the 2000 Yukon for those -20 degree days. I contacted the dealer who,not surprisingly,warned of voiding the warranty. The installer (Add-On Accessories)has installed hundreds of these things and,off the record,the GMC salesman says that many of his customers have had them installed. Have any of you installed remote starters-particularly those made by DesignTech? If so,any problems? Thanks.
#62 of 6383
Yukon Performance in deep snow by davecrook1
Dec 06, 2000 (7:43 pm)
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We have yet to experience any deep snow here in VT since purchasing the Yukon in June. I am looking at these tires and wondering if they'll "cut it"when we have deep snow. Particularly since the wife has to drive 1.5 hours to work and MUST be there. I'm considering purchasing some Nokian Hakkepellitas for the Yukon for winter use. We've had them on previous vehicles and they are a terrific winter tire. Does anybody have any experience yet in deep snow with these Firestone Wilderness tires? Thanks
#63 of 6383
by ryanbab
Dec 06, 2000 (9:19 pm)
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I have firestone wilderness AT's on my silverado. I drove through snow ( i wouldnt say deep) in ohio during thanksgiving. The tires to my amazement handled well. Good traction all around. I am still getting BFG's asap


Ryan
#64 of 6383
Brush Guards by jdh8
Dec 06, 2000 (9:54 pm)
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Everyone on this list has provided really great information and really helped me make an informed purchase. I've had my 2000 2wd Yukon for 5 months now. I need to ask your assistance on another issue - I'm considering buying brush guards for my rig. I have a few questions that I'd like to ask peoples' input on:


1) Does anyone know for sure the actual effects of installing brush guards on the operation/effectiveness of air bags?


2) For those folks with 2000 Yuks/Hoes/Burbs/XLs, what brands of brush guards have you bought, and how much have you paid? (I'm interested in black for my Pewter truck - what's the difference between matte finish and other finishes?)


3) How difficult is it to install the different brands you all have bought? Is it something that I can do, or do I need to go to a dealer or pro?


4) What about taillight guards - what products have people gone with for these? I've got cargo doors, so I'm not sure if I can even install taillight guards... do they require drilling?


I would really appreciate any input that people who have brush guards on their rigs could provide on each of these questions - and on any other concerns...


Currently at the top of my list are the FieldSport Brush Bars at Overlander.com for $449... what are your thoughts?


Thanks all, in advance... if you wish to email me, send it to jhessbest-in-class.com
#65 of 6383
2 Rear window motors #'s by led
Dec 06, 2000 (11:50 pm)
Reply
Yes, you are correct about the two different motor numbers.


Right side window Regulator #15757401


Left side window Regulator #15757400


BTW if anyone in the Houston area bought their Suburban or Tahoe at Mac Haik Chevy; they will replace the rear window motors in your driveway while you wait. (It takes about 30 minutes)



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