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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions 
4362 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: dustyk (Jul 20, 2006 2:43 pm) 
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Replying to: cheetobandito (Jul 20, 2006 4:01 pm) Yes, please post the solution. Bests, Dusty
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I am posting this again in the event that my last post is lost in the archives and not getting viewed very often. I have a 2000 Dakota with 87,000 miles. V6 / auto / 4x4. It goes through fits where it bucks and backfires up through the throttle body. It does this when taking off mostly, but lately I have noticed that it is backfiring at cruising speed on the highway. When driving it has no power at all to accelerate when at cruising speed. Even when it is not having a fit, it is severely under-powered. It has no get up and go. I have changed the battery, complete tune-up, engine temp sensor replaced, had fuel system checked. Mechanic can't pull any codes from it. If it were an old Chevy, I would say that it was a timing issue because it acts just like a Chevy when the timing is off. My mechanic has told me that he has had 3 Dakotas in the past month in for the same problem and he is pulling his hair out too. I NEED HELP WITH THIS ONE AND I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY SUGGESTIONS.  Thanks Deb |
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Replying to: dustyk (Jul 20, 2006 10:57 am) Since it just happened the one time and seemingly cleared itself I'm thinking perhaps just a momentary bad connection on the switch. Do you think it's possible that it just stems from the fact that the truck has been run so little lately and maybe a solenoid stuck for a few seconds ? I know I'm asking the impossible here but I value your opinion and before I go to the dealer I want to be prepared. |
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The door speakers on my '97 have been in the tank for the past few weeks. The surrounds on the factory Infinity speakers had seperated from the frame, and had an awful rattling sound at anything over 10% volume. This morning I replaced them with Pioneer TS-A1681R speakers. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! This is the best that radio has every sounded! Dodge wants well over $100 a speaker for the originals, but I got this pair of Pioneers, brand new, from a seller on EBAY for $56 delivered. I also had to buy a set of adapters, also from EBAY, for $10, because the OEM Infinities have 3 mounting ears sticking out of the speaker frame. The 1681's normally sell for over $120 a pair, and are 4 way, 260 watt, as opposed to the factory 1 ways, 50 watts. I would have to recommend these speakers to anyone who wants to replace their factory speakers. BTW...'97 Dakota....running great, no problems, and just made its second trip to the dealership...this time for transmission fluid, filters, pan gasket. I was starting to get a few drips on the garage floor. I may keep this thing forever....only got 66K on it after 9.5 years. |
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Replying to: dustyk (Jul 20, 2006 7:14 pm) 
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Just developed a new problem with my 2000 dakota. Went out to start it today and it started right up and was making a knocking noise. Shifted into gear and noise went away. Seem to run and drive same as it ever did. Noise is like a knock or like something is hitting something when engine is running but only when in park. Any clues?? Thanks Deb
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| I recently had the air conditioner fixed in my 2000 Dakota. Now there is this metallic clicking noise that gets louder when I accelerate. I also have to replace one of the o2 sensors because my dual exhaust. Is there something I can do about these twp problems? | |
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Replying to: pccrw (Jun 19, 2006 3:26 pm) Good luck Deb |
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Hello, I've been having a few problems with my 2000 quad-cab 4.7, Dakota in the past week. In the beginning the truck stalled on me and the engine light came on; I was able to stabilize the car by simply shutting off the AC; but I still had an erratic rpm needle. I quickly pulled the diagnostic codes from the odometer which where: 1491 and 1282. 1491: Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit 1282: Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit I went to AutoZone and found out that the relays in question are identical and swappable; which was kind of cool. The cost me 11 bucks each, I bought three of them just in case. And so I thought I was well on my way to fixing my problems. I removed the old relays and popped in the new ones. I started the truck and the idle was back to normal, I was thrilled! But the engine light was still on; so I pulled the negative cable from the battery to reset the light. When I reconnected the battery the engine light was still on. I ran the on-off routine to check the codes again and this time I only got one diagnostic code 1491. I thought to my self how could this be I've just replaced the relay then it dawned on me that I had not tried the Air conditioner yet. So I turned the truck on (it purred) then I hit the AC and the idle needle went berserk! Then the engine stalled. Ah nuts! As a side note, when I pulled the Radiator Fan Relay I noticed that it had signs of being hot, I could see on the sides of the relay how it had taken some heat. So at this point Im not sure what to do, I could use some good advice here. |
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