Sign In Join 



Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

4362 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM

You are in the Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


Messages Page 431 of 437
1
...
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
...
437
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#4293 of 4362
Re: Engine Roaring Noise - Just Started [dustyk] by firstdakota
Aug 09, 2006 (1:26 pm)

Replying to: dustyk (Aug 02, 2006 2:12 pm)

Dusty.. i find that a little strange.. why is it then that my dakota.. which i've had for only 3 months now.. never made a noise from the fan clutch.. until after i took it to the mechanic to get the belt tensioner replaced... now it makes a rotten roaring noise.. that sounds like i'm driving a piece of crap.. the fan clutch assembly seems to have alot of play in it. would it be time to replace it?
#4294 of 4362
Re: Engine Roaring Noise - Just Started [firstdakota] by dustyk
Aug 11, 2006 (2:41 pm)

Replying to: firstdakota (Aug 09, 2006 1:26 pm)

The Dakota service manual states that there should be "no play" in the thermostatic Fan Clutch assembly. If you apply back-and-forth force to the fan blades in the axial position (attempting to move the fan blades in a line from the front to the rear of the vehicle), there should be no perceptible movement.
 
Another test is to spin the fan with a brisk motion. When fully warmed the fan should not rotate one revolution, and they typically move no more than one or two blades distance.
 
The noise is normal as previously described. I cannot offer a logical explanation at this time, except that maybe the belt was so loose that the fan was not receiving enough drive until the tensioner was replaced.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#4295 of 4362
Fan Noise by dustyk
Aug 11, 2006 (3:07 pm)
Noise produced by the fan clutch on a Dakota is normal.
  
The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans contain a silicone filled coupling that connects the fan blades to the water pump shaft. This design utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air.
 
If the air temperature rises above a certain point, the bimetalic exerts pressure against a slip clutch and allows power of the water pump shaft to be transmitted through coupling to the fan assembly. This raises the speed of the fan blades and increases air flow through the radiator to provide increased cooling.
 
Sometimes after the vehicle has been driven to operating temperature the bimetalic spring may expand to the maximum coupling position due to localized heat from the engine or radiator after shutdown. After a cooling period the spring may not contract or contract fully. Upon restart the expanded spring causes the fan to spin at engine RPM until enough cool air has been drawn through the radiator, Then the spring contracts. This is what causes that momentary period when the fan is heard.
 
Testing the Fan Clutch Assembly
 
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag for more than five revolutions when spun by hand, the fan clutch assembly is defective. This test must be conducted when the engine is completely cool.
 
Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F.
 
There should be no perceptible lateral movement of the fan blades. If so, the fan assembly is defective.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#4296 of 4362
Re: Fan Noise [dustyk] by bpeebles
Aug 11, 2006 (4:32 pm)

Replying to: dustyk (Aug 11, 2006 3:07 pm)

Just to clarify.... when dusty says "Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F."... this is refering to the AIR BEING PULLED FROM THE RADIATOR...not engine temparture.
 
I know that in over 6 years, my fanclutch has NEVER enguaged due to heat from the radiator. HOWEVER: my fanclutch enguages for about1 mile of driving when ambient temps are about 40 degrees. (this is also normal behaviour)The silicone fluid inside the fanclutch gets "thick" and takes some time for the centripital forces to move it around.
#4297 of 4362
Re: Fan Noise [bpeebles] by dustyk
Aug 12, 2006 (5:48 am)

Replying to: bpeebles (Aug 11, 2006 4:32 pm)

Bpeebles is correct.
 
Mine engages at very low temperatures (winter) but releases by the time the transmission is in second gear, and it's always done that even on the one that Dodge replaced a couple of years ago.
 
Best regards,
Dusty
#4298 of 4362
Neurtral safety switch acting-up? by tjfitz
Aug 15, 2006 (10:49 am)
I posted a question on a 1990 Dodge Dakota under numbers 4288 and 4227, having to do with intermittent starting problems.
 
Now I am beginning to suspect it has something to do with the Neutral Safety Switch. The pickup has an automatic transmission, and the gear shift lever is a little reluctant to move easily at times. My daughter has found that jiggling the lever back and forth around neutral seems to take care of the starting problem.
 
If this is the problem, I am surprised that three garages didn't find it.
#4299 of 4362
More on Neutral Safety Switch by tjfitz
Aug 15, 2006 (11:28 am)
Hope I'm not annoying people with my posts on the 1990 Dakota starting problem. However, I just found the below quote (edited by me) on the Internet, in connection with installation of a remote starting switch. It only refers to pre-1996 Dakotas with 2.5 liter engines, but my 3.9 liter engine 1990 Dodge Dakota certainly has its automatic transmission gear selector lever on the steering column, too, and I wonder if my pickup's Neutral Safety Switch is mechanically-combined with the gear selector lever somewhere on the column?
 
"Some vehicles combine the column shift mechanism and the mechanical neutral safety switch into one mechanical part. According to available information, vehicles known to be manufactured this way are most General Motors trucks, sport utility vehicles and column shifting passenger vehicles. Available information also indicates that pre-1996 Dodge Dakota pickups with 2.5 liter motors are also manufactured this way."
 
http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/BDP%20Images/N562P_6-03.pdf
#4300 of 4362
1990 dodge Dakota by dave392
Aug 17, 2006 (8:31 am)
1990 dodge Dakota driving down the hwy and the engine just quits running no cough just dies, I find it has no spark checked the coil has 12v to it and 1.5 ohm across the terminal the cap and rotor look’s good
At this point I’m stuck. I need some help on the next steps to take to go to from here.
 
It cranks but wont start or run it has no spark it has no antitheift device, the Neutral Safety Switch is will keep it from cranking. but not keep the spark from happening from what I believe.
#4301 of 4362
Re: 1990 dodge Dakota [dave392] by broph
Aug 17, 2006 (12:48 pm)

Replying to: dave392 (Aug 17, 2006 8:31 am)

I had the same problem with my 1990 dakota, riding at 65 in rush hour traffic when everything died. I was able to get it going again to get it home. Diagnosis was a new computer and distributor by a reputiple mechanic. Just a thought. I also had a Chevy Blazer that would crank but would not start, that also needed a distributor.
#4302 of 4362
Re: Stripped Dakota Brake Caliper Bolts [dad4] by themcbrides_1
Aug 19, 2006 (1:48 pm)

Replying to: dad4 (Feb 16, 2006 7:38 pm)

do you know what size bolt threads are or what size coil you use

Messages Page 431 of 437
1
...
428
429
430
431
432
433
434
...
437
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement