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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions 
4362 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
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Replying to: dustyk (Aug 02, 2006 2:12 pm) |
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At about 5000 miles my dakota started shimmying when the breaks are applied. The dealer has replaces the breaks 3x's also fixing rotters,and replacing them.This last time they replaces my line because they said they thinned it out two many times.The shimmying always comes back about 4000-5000 miles after they fix them. this last time they fixed them,he said It still has the shimmying but will go away when the pads adjust to my roters.WILL this Shimmying ever go away????????????/ 
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Replying to: missmae (Aug 25, 2006 10:25 am) |
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hey, mine just started to drag. no power off the line. it feels like the brakes are engaging a little bit. i take my foot off and it slows right down. anybody have a idea?
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Replying to: slade (Aug 26, 2006 8:29 pm) Please review the archives for details. As for a "fix" for dragging front brakes.... replacement of the sticky caliper is the ONLY long-term fix. Anything else would be a temporary band-aid. For reference - My 2000 Dak had both front calipers start to stick within 3 months of each other. In both cases, I installed rebuilt caliper and have never had another issue with dragging brakes. |
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| thanks, i had hoped it was that simple. | |
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Replying to: jody (Jul 07, 2004 4:09 pm) Auto Zone has a diagnostic tester that they lend to anyone who has I.D. The don't advertise this fact, but it is good to know. My '99 dakota has 70,000 miles and the speedometer went out, in turn the , the ABS light came on AND the red brake lamp. The problem turned out to be the speed sensor valve, mounted on the rear differential housing. What really sucks is that you might think you can do without the speedometer for awhile, but when the ABS light comes on,it's telling you that it automatically turned itself off. Better not slam on your breaks! |
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Replying to: missmae (Aug 25, 2006 10:25 am) On my 04 Dakota 4x4 Quad my first set warped, and warped BADLY, at just after 7500 miles of all highway driving. After fighting with my dealership to even get them to admit that there was a vibration problem they admitted that all four rotors were warped and replaced them with a new set for free. I was fine for 3-4 months, then that 2nd set started causing another steering wheel vibration when braking right after my 12000 mile goodwill brake replacement period was up. It started as a very minor shimmy so I tolerated it until 45 thousand miles when it got so bad that the whole truck would vibrate violently in hard braking and when you tried to talk while the brakes were applied your voice waivered like you were sitting in the middle of an earthquake. As of 1000 miles ago there is now a set of Raybestos rotors with Bendix titanium metallic II pads on the front and the truck is now 100% vibration free in all braking situations. This is the best the truck has ever felt in braking, with much better pedal feel. Finally feels like I have something that can stand up to a little abuse. It'll eventually get the same combo on the back. Gas and time repeatedly going back to the dealership can be cost prohibitive and the stress of having such problems with a new vehicle probably isn't worth it anymore even if you're getting goodwill replacements. And if you're no longer getting free replacements I definitely wouldn't let a dealership put factory brakes on the truck again. Whatever they did to fiddle with the brake lines won't help and the thing about the brakes seating with the pads eventually solving the vibration problems isn't true. They're lying to you just so you go away without raising an even bigger stink. Dodge Dakota rotors are utter garbage, plain and simple. IMHO, do some research on the net and get a consensus on good aftermarket rotor/pad combos for your truck. Mine works for me, but you may want something different. The important part is make sure none of it is mopar. Spend 100-150$ for good front pads and rotors and another 60$ for the labor and then enjoy problem-free braking for another 50-100,000 miles. They don't make them like the used to. My old 95 Ranger had the factory rotors on it when I traded with one resurfacing at 100K, and I beat the snot out of that truck. On the Dak if I would have kept getting factory brakes put on I'd probably literally need rotors with every oil change. The one good thing I can say is between rotor issues and wheel balance issues, I have gotten really good at 'seat of the pants' diagnosis of vibration problems.
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Replying to: eharri3 (Aug 30, 2006 12:27 pm) I went thru factory rotors and some expensive "powerslot" rotors too. This is what the powerslot looked like after 3 winters. Now, I have the Raybestos / Bendix rotors installed on my dakota. They have lasted TWICE as long as the factory or the "powerslot" rotors and are still going. I dont know about you .... but it is a big waste of my time to do a rinky-dink job on my brake system. In the long run it costs less and is safer to just install quality components and be done with it. |
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| I bought a quadcab about a month ago which did not have the rear window defroster option. I asked the dealer roughly how much one would cost, he said that the window itself was $650 plus, but mentioned about a stick-on one from a parts store. The option is only $160 from factory. Has anyone done something like this before? Running wire is a pain but could be done, it would really be nice to see out the rear window in the winter. Thanks for any input - Tom | |
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