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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

4362 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#4311 of 4362
Re: 2005 Dodge Dakota Break Problems [eharri3] by bpeebles
Aug 30, 2006 (6:20 pm)

Replying to: eharri3 (Aug 30, 2006 12:27 pm)

I second thaqt opionion..... the factory brake rotors are junk. Why waste your time having the dealership install the same junk?
 
I went thru factory rotors and some expensive "powerslot" rotors too. This is what the powerslot looked like after 3 winters.
 
Now, I have the Raybestos / Bendix rotors installed on my dakota. They have lasted TWICE as long as the factory or the "powerslot" rotors and are still going.
 
I dont know about you .... but it is a big waste of my time to do a rinky-dink job on my brake system. In the long run it costs less and is safer to just install quality components and be done with it.
#4312 of 4362
rear window defroster by broph
Aug 31, 2006 (12:59 pm)
I bought a quadcab about a month ago which did not have the rear window defroster option. I asked the dealer roughly how much one would cost, he said that the window itself was $650 plus, but mentioned about a stick-on one from a parts store. The option is only $160 from factory. Has anyone done something like this before? Running wire is a pain but could be done, it would really be nice to see out the rear window in the winter. Thanks for any input - Tom
#4313 of 4362
Re: rear window defroster [broph] by bpeebles
Aug 31, 2006 (4:25 pm)

Replying to: broph (Aug 31, 2006 12:59 pm)

I have a cap on my truck and visability out the back window is nil. Most trucks have no rear window at all. It took me a while to get accostumed to using the side mirrors but now I can back up as well as any trucker using just the mirrors.
 
Perhaps you just need to start using your mirrors as they are meant to be used.
 
Another option would be to keep a rag in your truck and simply wipe off the rear window on those rare occasions it gets fogged up.
 
OR... you could always drive your Dakota like my wife does mine.... never EVER back up.
#4314 of 4362
Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [me2butch4u] by curious_gears
Aug 31, 2006 (9:16 pm)

Replying to: me2butch4u (Aug 09, 2006 10:23 am)

well, i would check and see how your mass air flow sensor is doing. what it does is regulate the ammount of air and gas mixture being put into the engine. that might be starting to go, and if the gas cap could have been bad, it could have been allowing moisture into the gas tank, and that moisture could have made the mass air flow sensor freak out
#4315 of 4362
03 brake problems by 03dakota
Sep 01, 2006 (3:09 am)
had warranty replacement of master cylinder and power assist unit. brakes are soft and need bled but dealer is either lazy or incompetent , puts more effort into smooth talking than into troubleshooting/repairing. I've been away from shade-tree
repairs for a while , what is the procedure for a home hack without a manual to bleed ABS brakes? Sounds like you guys have been through all of this and I hope you still visit the site to help us other poor fools.
#4316 of 4362
Re: rear window defroster [bpeebles] by broph
Sep 01, 2006 (4:08 am)

Replying to: bpeebles (Aug 31, 2006 4:25 pm)

I replaced my Silverado extcab with the Dakota and that's how I used to back that thing up, with the mirrors. After posting the query, I got to thinking that putting in a rear defroster would not be a good idea anyway. I eventually want to get a cap and it would be 1 more thing to go wrong. Thanks for the feedback.
#4317 of 4362
Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [curious_gears] by bpeebles
Sep 01, 2006 (3:18 pm)

Replying to: curious_gears (Aug 31, 2006 9:16 pm)

Dakota does not use MAF (MassAirFlow)sensor ... instead it uses MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure)sensor.
 
MAF sensor is more accurate. It actually measures the mass of the airflow into the engine and automatically compensates for temparure and air-density. MAF is also more expensive and very sensitive to contamination. (Oiled-guaze airfilters can ruin a MAF sensor)
 
MAP is just a vacuum sensor in the intake manifold. The computer has to also take temparture readings and other sensor inputs to CALCULATE the amount of air entering the engine. MAP based systems are cheeper... but tend to be inaccurate. As airfilter starts to plug and air-density flucuates, its calculations are less than accurate.
 
---------------------
 
ALSO: Moisture in the fuel has no affect WHATSOEVER on either MAF or MAP systems. The fuel never ever comes anywhere near either of the sensors.
#4318 of 4362
Re: Gas Guage problem? [mtrialsm] by spurman
Sep 02, 2006 (5:48 pm)

Replying to: mtrialsm (Jul 21, 2003 4:57 am)

Have you solved the problem with the gas gauge? I have a 2002 dakota quad cab with the 4.7/auto that started the same problem. It started out a couple of weeks ago,intermittently, when the tank got low on fuel, but today the tank was 3/4 full the gauge went to empty and will not move.
#4319 of 4362
2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems by dataguru
Sep 06, 2006 (11:27 am)
At the 70K maintenance servicing at the dealer, I was advised during fluid levels checks that the rear differential fluids had traces of metal in the oil and further visual checks indicated that the LSD clutch retainers are broken and the mechanism has begun to slide from its normal position. The parts are on order and will replace when they arrive. There is absolutely no noise whatsoever but, they said it is ok to continue driving. I wonder if the gears are damaged? Has anyone experienced this situation with their Dakota or can offer some information on this? I am a normal sedate driver and am puzzled what could have caused it. Any recommendations are muchly appreciated. Specs - 2003 Quad Cab 4.7L 2WD LSD 3.92 5-45RFE Auto Trans.
 
Thanks in advance.
dataguru
#4320 of 4362
Re: 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems [dataguru] by mike133
Sep 06, 2006 (5:10 pm)

Replying to: dataguru (Sep 06, 2006 11:27 am)

This is a known problem for the dakota with LSD rear differential. Good thing it was caught while under warranty. Should not cost you anything. Most in the know will change the rear differential fluid before 20K to check on the clips. If not fixed in time the differential will fail and cost big bucks to fix.

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