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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

4362 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#4316 of 4362
Re: rear window defroster [bpeebles] by broph
Sep 01, 2006 (4:08 am)

Replying to: bpeebles (Aug 31, 2006 4:25 pm)

I replaced my Silverado extcab with the Dakota and that's how I used to back that thing up, with the mirrors. After posting the query, I got to thinking that putting in a rear defroster would not be a good idea anyway. I eventually want to get a cap and it would be 1 more thing to go wrong. Thanks for the feedback.
#4317 of 4362
Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [curious_gears] by bpeebles
Sep 01, 2006 (3:18 pm)

Replying to: curious_gears (Aug 31, 2006 9:16 pm)

Dakota does not use MAF (MassAirFlow)sensor ... instead it uses MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure)sensor.
 
MAF sensor is more accurate. It actually measures the mass of the airflow into the engine and automatically compensates for temparure and air-density. MAF is also more expensive and very sensitive to contamination. (Oiled-guaze airfilters can ruin a MAF sensor)
 
MAP is just a vacuum sensor in the intake manifold. The computer has to also take temparture readings and other sensor inputs to CALCULATE the amount of air entering the engine. MAP based systems are cheeper... but tend to be inaccurate. As airfilter starts to plug and air-density flucuates, its calculations are less than accurate.
 
---------------------
 
ALSO: Moisture in the fuel has no affect WHATSOEVER on either MAF or MAP systems. The fuel never ever comes anywhere near either of the sensors.
#4318 of 4362
Re: Gas Guage problem? [mtrialsm] by spurman
Sep 02, 2006 (5:48 pm)

Replying to: mtrialsm (Jul 21, 2003 4:57 am)

Have you solved the problem with the gas gauge? I have a 2002 dakota quad cab with the 4.7/auto that started the same problem. It started out a couple of weeks ago,intermittently, when the tank got low on fuel, but today the tank was 3/4 full the gauge went to empty and will not move.
#4319 of 4362
2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems by dataguru
Sep 06, 2006 (11:27 am)
At the 70K maintenance servicing at the dealer, I was advised during fluid levels checks that the rear differential fluids had traces of metal in the oil and further visual checks indicated that the LSD clutch retainers are broken and the mechanism has begun to slide from its normal position. The parts are on order and will replace when they arrive. There is absolutely no noise whatsoever but, they said it is ok to continue driving. I wonder if the gears are damaged? Has anyone experienced this situation with their Dakota or can offer some information on this? I am a normal sedate driver and am puzzled what could have caused it. Any recommendations are muchly appreciated. Specs - 2003 Quad Cab 4.7L 2WD LSD 3.92 5-45RFE Auto Trans.
 
Thanks in advance.
dataguru
#4320 of 4362
Re: 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems [dataguru] by mike133
Sep 06, 2006 (5:10 pm)

Replying to: dataguru (Sep 06, 2006 11:27 am)

This is a known problem for the dakota with LSD rear differential. Good thing it was caught while under warranty. Should not cost you anything. Most in the know will change the rear differential fluid before 20K to check on the clips. If not fixed in time the differential will fail and cost big bucks to fix.
#4321 of 4362
05 Dakota making a squeaking noise by uberdavey
Sep 08, 2006 (8:10 am)
My truck has been making a strange squeeking noise. I can only hear the noise between 25 and 50 mph.Slower or faster then that and I cannot hear it. It sounds like it is coming from the rear passenger side. The sound speeds up a little as i accelerate between 25 and 50. Was at the dealership awhile ago and asked about it and they said it was probably just due to the new tires. Been a few months and it is still doing this. Any ideas as to what it is?
#4322 of 4362
Re: 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems [mike133] by dataguru
Sep 08, 2006 (8:14 am)

Replying to: mike133 (Sep 06, 2006 5:10 pm)

mike133 - thanks for your feedback.
 
Was there a standard TSB issued on this or a recall issued? I can't find any details on this issue.
 
dataguru
#4323 of 4362
Re: 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems [dataguru] by mike133
Sep 08, 2006 (5:40 pm)

Replying to: dataguru (Sep 08, 2006 8:14 am)

I am not aware of any TSB on it. Not all LSD rear differentials will have this problem. Check out other Dodge Dakota and Dodge Ram forums. The C-clips for the LSD will come loose or fall out and cause damage. Will usually happen under 20K and differential will fail after warranty is up. The only way to know for sure is with a visual inspection with the rear housing cover off. This is a problem in the current and past years.
#4324 of 4362
Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [bpeebles] by modanncnr
Sep 08, 2006 (7:39 pm)

Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 01, 2006 3:18 pm)

THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT. I just hopped on here to find that someone gave a false explanation of the MAP/BARO system as well as the MAF. THanks for putting it straight. Have been ASE certified for years now and am considering a Dakota. I have read all about the brakes, etc and wonder mostly about fuel consumption / mileage. WHat are you guys getting for mileage on the 4.7, the 3.7 and the HO 4.7/5.2 motors. Would appreciate info.
#4325 of 4362
Re: rear window defroster [broph] by modanncnr
Sep 08, 2006 (7:47 pm)

Replying to: broph (Aug 31, 2006 12:59 pm)

THere are no rear defroster kits any longer that are worth a crap. It used to be that you could install a kit from Frostemp, Winzer, Clardy, Borg Warner or Wurth, but none produce it any longer.
 
I was the service manager at an quto-electric repair facility for 4 years and we installed defrost, cruise, seat heaters, obstacle sensing systems, etc along with severe diagnosis and full scale repairs. Believe me, you would be much better off with a new window.
 
Once you consider, really consider the costs, of an aftermarket kit, the wiring, relay, switches and blank fuse panel wiring and location for the load of 10-20 amps, then it is not even worth it. Besides, here in the NW, I have yet to see a parts store offer such a thing. Their repair kits, which are avail. for cracks less than 1 inch long on a grid line, are made by Permatex (c)and are junk as well. Try to stay far away from A/M kits for accessories such as you mentioned, if you don't want a migraine headache.

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