Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

13114 messages,  Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 8:45 PM

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Messages Page 952 of 1312

#9508 of 13114 Re: Oil Changes [gee35coupe] by dcp

Jan 27, 2005 (3:54 pm)

Replying to: gee35coupe (Jan 27, 2005 2:16 pm)
so it's really just honda's recommended maintenance vs personal preference and level of anal retentiveness...

#9509 of 13114 Rear door locks don't work in cold weather by rajohnson1

Jan 27, 2005 (4:06 pm)

I have a 2003 Accord LX with 42,000 miles. This winter I noticed that on really cold days (20 degrees or less) the rear door locks do not work. It started with the left rear door a few weeks ago, and then today I had the same problem with both rear doors. As soon as the inside of the car warms up enough, they work fine.
 
Has anybody seen this before? I haven't gone to the dealer yet because I'm afraid he's going to tell me that it's out of warranty. I was wondering if this is a safety issue because the door locks cannot even be pulled up by hand. If someone were in the back seat, they would be stuck inside the car until it warmed up. Although that scenario is unlikely, since the problem only occurs when the car hasn't been driven recently, still I wonder if this can be considered a safety issue. Would Honda cover this after the 36,000 warranty is up?
 
Thanks,
Rich

#9510 of 13114 V6 Auto replacement transmission by baba4

Jan 27, 2005 (5:11 pm)

If a 99 accord auto trans is replaced now, what kind of warranty you expect? Is it 3 yr/36K or 7yr/100K? Asking because I was told it is 7yr/100K for recent models (2000 and later?). Does the same apply to a 99 model because it is the same design flaw with V6 trans. Need help!

#9511 of 13114 Re: There aren't any short trips. [gee35coupe] by imidazol97

Jan 27, 2005 (5:25 pm)

Replying to: gee35coupe (Jan 27, 2005 3:47 pm)
>nearest anything to our house is about 5 miles
 
Then I need to retract my statement. What kind of drive to work do the cars get? If I remember, you're in Atlanta and you really don't have winter -- just super hot in summer traffic. You're more likely to detriorate the oil in hot summer traffic than with cool weather condensation.

#9512 of 13114 Navigation System issues. by greglawson

Jan 27, 2005 (5:27 pm)

Hello, we own a '05 EX 4Cyl/auto Nav, and have been having some issues with the nav system's tracking of the veichle. In the nav's diagnostic menu (map + Menu + Cancel), under the "B-Cam" it says "Error Active". The problem shows up most often after we make a turn, and the system suddenly says "Not on a digitized road", and stops giving directions for a few minutes (or gives us the wrong directions). The car is entirely stock, and hasn't had any window tinting.
 
Any clues as to what the problem is, so that I know what to expect before going to the dealer?
 
Thanks

#9515 of 13114 Re: Need Help, Badly! [jared1195] by merlin180

Jan 27, 2005 (9:52 pm)

Replying to: jared1195 (Jan 26, 2005 2:29 pm)
Not sure if this has been solved, but I had an almost identical problem (not on an Accord but the logic is still valid)
 
After much headscratching it turn out the problem was a stiff trunk latch!!
 
When trying to get the trunk open with the key, I could turn it a bit but not enough to open so would use the release by the driver's seat. Once done would just slam the trunk down. It would stay down but, unknown to me, the lock was not fully "engaged" so the lid was not *fully* down.
 
Critically, this meant the little light inside the trunk was still on. Although it's a very small drain on the battery, being on *all* the time (even when I wasn't driving) was enough to cause problems.
 
If I ran the car every day (i.e. during the work week) all was OK, but I tend not to use it at the weekend, so on Monday morning the battery had be drained just enough to not be able to start (Monday morning are bad enough without having to cope with a dead car).
 
I only replaced the battery once before recognising the "Monday morning" pattern.
 
The fix was to lubricate the trunk lock so it worked easily and fully engaged the lock when the trunk lid was closed, thus turning off the internal trunk light!!
 
Of course your problem may not be the trunk lock, but look for some small drain like a license plate light (or short circuit)
 
Hope this helps......

#9516 of 13114 Re: Help for Brake Light problem [gye] by businessmanph

Jan 27, 2005 (9:54 pm)

Replying to: gye (Jul 28, 2000 8:04 am)
First the inner tail lights (trunk lights) are not suppose to light up when you brake, if you look at the trunk light bulbs it is single wired. Look at your outter brake lights they are double wired. Brake lights have two wires because one if for lights in general, the other wire is for when you brake (makes the light brighter), same shit with high beams.
 
Now when you turn your lights on, the inner trunk lights are supposed to turn on. BTW these lights are a waste of money. I personally don’t have bulbs in these sockets.
 
My car
 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v365/ph97accord/back-car-naphi.- gif
 
As far as your center light I would change the bulb or get the socket fixed, check the wiring.
 
If you look at 90-93 accord and Acura TLs both the outer and inter trunk lights, light up when braking. 97 Accords don’t.

#9517 of 13114 Re: Winter time: is warming up the engine required ? [tlee] by ovp66223

Jan 28, 2005 (6:20 am)

Replying to: tlee (Jan 26, 2005 9:55 am)
I would disagree here. No matter how cold it is outside and how thick and less viscous the motor oil is, warming up the car sitting still at low idle speed is the WORST possibly thing to do. The most wear your engine will experience is during low engine speeds when cold. Why?
 
Well, first off, at low engine speeds (idling, < 1500 rpm) oil, thick or thin, is not being circulated very well. Oil circulation in the engine relies heavily on the speed of the engine itself, as it spins faster, it is able to forcefully ciculate the oil better and further into the depths and heights of the engine parts. Cold oil will barely leave the pan when idling, so warming up a car at idle in very cold weather will serve to have the water/antifreeze mixture in the radiator and heater core heated well, so you can have the heater on and be toasty inside, but the side effect is severely shortened engine life (bye bye piston rings, hello blow by and rebuild job). Its everyone's choice, obviously, since you paid for the car, but if you want advice to maintain your engine to its max possible life expectancy, do NOT let car run at idle for those 5 or 10 minutes, instead start it up and drive off, don't go crazy and rev to 5000+ rpm, but a good 3000 or 4000 peak before auto or manual shift will lessen wear on engine (as opposed to 1000 rpm idling when oil is hardly circulating and metal is scraping metal over and over).

Messages Page 952 of 1312

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