Transmission fluid change-which method is better? - READ ONLY

99 messages, Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM

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#20 of 99 I have to agree with leadfoot4 by burdawg Mar 01, 2002 (8:44 am)
I miss the dipstick. To refill the trans on my Grand Am: 1. Remove fill plug/vent cap. 2. Refill minus about 1 quart. 3. Jack up car, remove right front wheel so you can see level hole easier. 4. Start engine. Let it run long enough to warm up trans to operating temp. Shift through all ranges to distribute fluid. 5. Remove oil level plug in side of trans. Engine should still be running. 6. Lower jack down so car is relatively level. 7. Add fluid until it comes up to bottom of level plug hole, or till it just runs out (easier unless you like jumping up and down a lot). 8. Replace level hole plug. Don't turn engine off with the plug out unless you want to start again. 9. Jack car back up, put wheel back on. 10. Don't forget to put the fluid fill/vent cap back on.
#21 of 99 Burdawg....... by leadfoot4 Mar 01, 2002 (9:18 am)
The process that's outlined in the Lincoln shop manual for my LS is similar to the "scenario" that you describe. I had the car in the shop last week for a minor warranty repair, and I was discussing the tranny fluid thing with the service manager. I asked him about doing a change,(they have the flush&fill machine) and he said,"Save your money, bring it in at 30,000 miles". They did, however, put it up on the lift and check the level. I'm used to doing my own maintenance, which involved changing the fluid and filter annually.
#22 of 99 aurora5000 would it be a little better by gsleve Mar 01, 2002 (12:22 pm)
if you used a gallon milk jug after washed it out thereby you could multiply the time factor by 4 and it would save you a little more time
#23 of 99 GM Product by lukjack Mar 06, 2002 (10:07 pm)
I just bought a Buick Rendezvous. The maintenance manual does not call for a tranny fluid and filter change until 100,000 miles. I am not sure if I want to wait that long. However, I did get the towing package because it comes with a transmission cooler, as heat is the number #1 killer of transmissions....Any thoughts??
#24 of 99 gsleve by aurora5000 Mar 07, 2002 (4:32 am)
I think I will try that on my wife's car. She has a GM "Turbo 400" Tranny in her car. That's going back a few years....
#25 of 99 Schedule by armtdm Mar 07, 2002 (4:32 am)
I also have a Buick (Regal) but I believe the schedule is the same. Mine is 50,000 severe service and 100,000 normal. Problem with GM products is that they have no drain plug, have to drop the pan. I am considering pumping it out via dipstick arouond 25000 and doing the drain and fill route.
#26 of 99 gsleve by aurora5000 Mar 07, 2002 (4:02 pm)
I changed tranny fluid today with the "gallon at a time method". I used 1 gal. plastic anti-frezze fluid containers and watched as it filled up. It would only fill up 3 and 1/2 quarts at a time and then stop. It took about a minute each time to fill. I did that 3 times and changed out 11 Quarts. Thanks for the friendly advice, neighbor.
#27 of 99 Wondering if I can change my own fluid? by tntitan Mar 08, 2002 (2:26 pm)
I have a 2000 Accord SE and have no idea if I can change my own transmission fluid or not. If someone knows my 4cyl. engine well enough to walk me through a detailed description in idiotproof terms then I am willing to give it a shot. Same thing with my brake fluid. I am approaching 30,000 and don't want to wait on the brakes. The manual says 45,000 the first time and then every 30,000 but I don't see what is different. With ABS it seems wise to do it every 30,000. Help! The best answer may be to just "pay the man".
#28 of 99 armtdm... by adc100 Mar 09, 2002 (4:18 am)
I would consider dropping the pan. For years, I avoided the job and had it done (even though I'm a decant mechanic). I have a set of those "Rhino Ramps" available for usually $29. I would recommend just running it up on the ramps and clean everything off underneath. Make sure that you can get a socket on all of the pan bolts. Once you see there are no interferences, you probably will want to tackle it. If you take your time and loosen it up such that the oil drains out of one corner its not really messy. When you pull the filter off make sure that the rubber gasket/oring comes off with it. When going back together use a light coat of grease to hold the gasket in place. The filter rests on a shelf attached to the housing. Difficult to screw up. The only trouble I had was the torque value of pan bolts. The manual indicated 96 in/lbs. The filter box indicated 144 in/lbs max. I went with about 120 in/lbs and had leaks. Went to 150 in/lbs-no problem. Filter/gasket kit was $8 at Advance. Al
#29 of 99 Carefull with where you get the filter though by zr2rando Mar 09, 2002 (5:15 am)
If the filter comes with a cork-burger filter be leary of it, they sometimes are a little bit off-sized, almost like they shrink up when they cool after being stamped out at the factory, and sometimes they start leaking later in life too. Napa has good filters and good (quality material and THICK) gaskets come with them, but they are more expensive at Napa. Like ADC100 said, make sure you have pan clearance, I have a 95 s10 Blazer and the back part of the pan is above a frame cross member which had to be removed to get the pan out (it only lacked clearance by about 1/2 inch!!) Most vehicles do not have that type problem though. Good luck!

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