Transmission fluid change-which method is better? - READ ONLY

99 messages, Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

This discussion is ARCHIVED. To reactivate the discussion, post a request in the Lost? Ask the M&R Host for directions! discussion.

What is this discussion about? Transmission

Outline

Messages Page 4 of 11: 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; ...; 11; Prev; Next; Last

#22 of 99 aurora5000 would it be a little better by gsleve Mar 01, 2002 (12:22 pm)
if you used a gallon milk jug after washed it out thereby you could multiply the time factor by 4 and it would save you a little more time
#23 of 99 GM Product by lukjack Mar 06, 2002 (10:07 pm)
I just bought a Buick Rendezvous. The maintenance manual does not call for a tranny fluid and filter change until 100,000 miles. I am not sure if I want to wait that long. However, I did get the towing package because it comes with a transmission cooler, as heat is the number #1 killer of transmissions....Any thoughts??
#24 of 99 gsleve by aurora5000 Mar 07, 2002 (4:32 am)
I think I will try that on my wife's car. She has a GM "Turbo 400" Tranny in her car. That's going back a few years....
#25 of 99 Schedule by armtdm Mar 07, 2002 (4:32 am)
I also have a Buick (Regal) but I believe the schedule is the same. Mine is 50,000 severe service and 100,000 normal. Problem with GM products is that they have no drain plug, have to drop the pan. I am considering pumping it out via dipstick arouond 25000 and doing the drain and fill route.
#26 of 99 gsleve by aurora5000 Mar 07, 2002 (4:02 pm)
I changed tranny fluid today with the "gallon at a time method". I used 1 gal. plastic anti-frezze fluid containers and watched as it filled up. It would only fill up 3 and 1/2 quarts at a time and then stop. It took about a minute each time to fill. I did that 3 times and changed out 11 Quarts. Thanks for the friendly advice, neighbor.
#27 of 99 Wondering if I can change my own fluid? by tntitan Mar 08, 2002 (2:26 pm)
I have a 2000 Accord SE and have no idea if I can change my own transmission fluid or not. If someone knows my 4cyl. engine well enough to walk me through a detailed description in idiotproof terms then I am willing to give it a shot. Same thing with my brake fluid. I am approaching 30,000 and don't want to wait on the brakes. The manual says 45,000 the first time and then every 30,000 but I don't see what is different. With ABS it seems wise to do it every 30,000. Help! The best answer may be to just "pay the man".
#28 of 99 armtdm... by adc100 Mar 09, 2002 (4:18 am)
I would consider dropping the pan. For years, I avoided the job and had it done (even though I'm a decant mechanic). I have a set of those "Rhino Ramps" available for usually $29. I would recommend just running it up on the ramps and clean everything off underneath. Make sure that you can get a socket on all of the pan bolts. Once you see there are no interferences, you probably will want to tackle it. If you take your time and loosen it up such that the oil drains out of one corner its not really messy. When you pull the filter off make sure that the rubber gasket/oring comes off with it. When going back together use a light coat of grease to hold the gasket in place. The filter rests on a shelf attached to the housing. Difficult to screw up. The only trouble I had was the torque value of pan bolts. The manual indicated 96 in/lbs. The filter box indicated 144 in/lbs max. I went with about 120 in/lbs and had leaks. Went to 150 in/lbs-no problem. Filter/gasket kit was $8 at Advance. Al
#29 of 99 Carefull with where you get the filter though by zr2rando Mar 09, 2002 (5:15 am)
If the filter comes with a cork-burger filter be leary of it, they sometimes are a little bit off-sized, almost like they shrink up when they cool after being stamped out at the factory, and sometimes they start leaking later in life too. Napa has good filters and good (quality material and THICK) gaskets come with them, but they are more expensive at Napa. Like ADC100 said, make sure you have pan clearance, I have a 95 s10 Blazer and the back part of the pan is above a frame cross member which had to be removed to get the pan out (it only lacked clearance by about 1/2 inch!!) Most vehicles do not have that type problem though. Good luck!
#30 of 99 zr2rando by adc100 Mar 09, 2002 (6:13 am)
You are exactly right. The interference was in a 92 Corsica, the problem was gettting a socket in there. A 1/4 inch drive solved that problem. Its tight on other GM vehicles also-amazing!!
#31 of 99 Torque by armtdm Mar 09, 2002 (6:27 am)
My pan is actually a clear view, nothing in the way. Plus, I have a drain plug so it should not be as messy. I have never put a fitler in so I am leary of the first time syndrome and leaks but I think I will give it a try. As to the torque, I have basically given up on the OEM recommendations. Especially for valve covers and oil and tranny pans. Valve cover I could almost hand turn when it started to seep so now I re torque via the "seems tight to me method". In my experience it seems better to over tighten (not to strip or break) these bolts. The dealers and mechanics seem to have the opposite belief and I wind up having to tighten them when they begin to seep. I do have ramps so time to give it a try

Messages Page 4 of 11: 1; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6; 7; ...; 11; Prev; Next; Last

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Search Forums

Browse by Vehicle

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic

View All Topics

Today's Chats

Chat Schedule