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Transmission fluid change-which method is better? - READ ONLY

99 messages,  Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM

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What is this discussion about? Transmission


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#26 of 99
gsleve by aurora5000
Mar 07, 2002 (4:02 pm)
I changed tranny fluid today with the "gallon at a time method". I used 1 gal. plastic anti-frezze fluid containers and watched as it filled up. It would only fill up 3 and 1/2 quarts at a time and then stop. It took about a minute each time to fill. I did that 3 times and changed out 11 Quarts.
 Thanks for the friendly advice, neighbor.
#27 of 99
Wondering if I can change my own fluid? by tntitan
Mar 08, 2002 (2:26 pm)
I have a 2000 Accord SE and have no idea if I can change my own transmission fluid or not. If someone knows my 4cyl. engine well enough to walk me through a detailed description in idiotproof terms then I am willing to give it a shot. Same thing with my brake fluid. I am approaching 30,000 and don't want to wait on the brakes. The manual says 45,000 the first time and then every 30,000 but I don't see what is different. With ABS it seems wise to do it every 30,000. Help!
 
The best answer may be to just "pay the man".
#28 of 99
armtdm... by adc100
Mar 09, 2002 (4:18 am)
I would consider dropping the pan. For years, I avoided the job and had it done (even though I'm a decant mechanic). I have a set of those "Rhino Ramps" available for usually $29. I would recommend just running it up on the ramps and clean everything off underneath. Make sure that you can get a socket on all of the pan bolts. Once you see there are no interferences, you probably will want to tackle it.
 
If you take your time and loosen it up such that the oil drains out of one corner its not really messy. When you pull the filter off make sure that the rubber gasket/oring comes off with it. When going back together use a light coat of grease to hold the gasket in place. The filter rests on a shelf attached to the housing. Difficult to screw up.
 
The only trouble I had was the torque value of pan bolts. The manual indicated 96 in/lbs. The filter box indicated 144 in/lbs max. I went with about 120 in/lbs and had leaks. Went to 150 in/lbs-no problem. Filter/gasket kit was $8 at Advance.
 
Al
#29 of 99
Carefull with where you get the filter though by zr2rando
Mar 09, 2002 (5:15 am)
If the filter comes with a cork-burger filter be leary of it, they sometimes are a little bit off-sized, almost like they shrink up when they cool after being stamped out at the factory, and sometimes they start leaking later in life too.
Napa has good filters and good (quality material and THICK) gaskets come with them, but they are more expensive at Napa.
Like ADC100 said, make sure you have pan clearance, I have a 95 s10 Blazer and the back part of the pan is above a frame cross member which had to be removed to get the pan out (it only lacked clearance by about 1/2 inch!!)
Most vehicles do not have that type problem though. Good luck!
#30 of 99
zr2rando by adc100
Mar 09, 2002 (6:13 am)
You are exactly right. The interference was in a 92 Corsica, the problem was gettting a socket in there. A 1/4 inch drive solved that problem. Its tight on other GM vehicles also-amazing!!
#31 of 99
Torque by armtdm
Mar 09, 2002 (6:27 am)
My pan is actually a clear view, nothing in the way. Plus, I have a drain plug so it should not be as messy. I have never put a fitler in so I am leary of the first time syndrome and leaks but I think I will give it a try.
 
As to the torque, I have basically given up on the OEM recommendations. Especially for valve covers and oil and tranny pans. Valve cover I could almost hand turn when it started to seep so now I re torque via the "seems tight to me method". In my experience it seems better to over tighten (not to strip or break) these bolts. The dealers and mechanics seem to have the opposite belief and I wind up having to tighten them when they begin to seep.
 
I do have ramps so time to give it a try
#32 of 99
Question by armtdm
Mar 09, 2002 (6:32 am)
My mechanic says that for the most part when they replace a tranny filter it is basically clean, especially those with screens rather then true fitlering material.
 
What has been you experience, how did the filter look when some of you replaced it?
#33 of 99
Pretty "Dark"... by adc100
Mar 09, 2002 (8:47 am)
But not out of control. There is also a magnet epoxied to the inside bottom of the pan it will be very very dirty. My transmission fluid was very/very clean. The car had 127,000 miles and the oil had been changed last at about 60K (Mobil 1 syn) Friend of mine has a Chevy Van and his oil was very dark and the filter very dirty. Helped him change and that gave me the confidence to do mine.
#34 of 99
Chevy truck trans filters, by zr2rando
Mar 09, 2002 (11:28 am)
I have a 95 s10 blazer and a 99 s10 p/u, both have the same transmission, filter uses a fuzzy fabric material (dacron I think),not a screen.
99- change all fluid (fluid-exchange at quickie-lube place) at 30k, and pan/filter at 50k, added Lubeguard at 50k change-------------filter material still looked like new (not exactly but very clean for what I expected) at the 50k change.
95- pan and filter at 52k, all fluid at 75k, all fluid at 98k, pan and filter at 125k, added Lubeguard at last pan/filter change.----------------filter material was slightly darker than new material, but still in very good shape.
I did the pan/fluid changes at Cottman's Transmission, price was good ($30 for labor and fluid (not synthetic),, and the 95 has to have that frame member undone (stupid Chevy engineer tricks!!!!),
From what I have seen, the main thing for trannie fluid is to check periodically for color and smell, making sure there is no overheating issues that would be breaking down the additives. If it does not get overheated, the DexronIII actually seems to last pretty good,,,,,LOTS better than the older DexronII ever did.
Both transmissions are shifting as well as when new, (knocking on wood as I type!!!
#35 of 99
tntitan... by mike1qaz
Mar 10, 2002 (11:54 am)
There is no pan to drop on Honda's auto trans for the I-4 Accords (98-02). Also no filter to replace. Simply drive the car to warm up the transmission and remove the drain plug. Monitor how much fluid is drained and replace that amount of fluid through the transmission dip stick tube. Be sure to use the Honda atf-z1 fluid!!! Your user manual will show you where everything is located and walmart has the metered funnel with hose to make the replacement easy.
   The brake fluid replacement is a different story. In another life I used to work summers at my dads service station. Back then we used a power brake bleeder to supply fluid under pressure and cracked the bleeder valve at all 4 wheels. I don't know how they do brake fluid replacement today, but i assume it is similar to this.
   30K is premature for both of these fluids to be replaced. However its your car and your money.
Happy driving.

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