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Maintenance & Repair Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions Transmission fluid change-which method is better? 
99 messages, Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM
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| Remove the pan. Replace the filter and reinstall the pan. Add about 4 quarts of fluid. Remove the cooler return line (from upper fitting at rad) at trans and attach a length of hose to direct fluid into a catch pan. Have an assistant start the engine and pour fluid into the trans at the same rate it's being pumped out. When the discharge is clean fluid, shut the engine off, reinstall the cooler line and top of the trans in the usual manner. | |
Maybe Ive just been lucky. My 94 escort GT has 115K miles with 1 transmission service at 75K. I had it pumped at the local oil change place. Tranny shifts just as rough as when I bought it at 20K miles  CLick & Clack, the guys on NPR, said that if you have 75-100K, dont open it up, its just as likely to cause problems. |
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Many newer cars have a drain plug for tranny fluid. I have a toyota, Merc, Isuzu that have plugs my GM product does not. So a drain and fill is very easy. On my 92 Toyota I did the first drain and filter change (dropped the pan) at 25,000 miles. I have only drained and filled via the plug every 30,000 since then (have not changed the filter since 25,000) and now have 142,000 on tranny. Granted you only get about half the fluid each time but that is fine. I use synthetic ATF A "flush" (not a pump out change ) is fine but "no one does it properly" due to cost. After flushing the system the pan should be dropped as the gunk is removed and sits in the pan and can and has caused problems. Now, if you are simply pumping out the old fluid via the cooler line then that is fine. However, overall I think this is overkill. For the cost of fluid (if you have a plug) drain and fill yourself. Measure the amount taken out as this is much easier then filling up and overfilling as it is a pain to remove the fluid if overfilled. Remember, check when tranny is hot and engine running. |
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"A "flush" (not a pump out change ) is fine but "no one does it properly" due to cost." No one does it properly? Not one? Nobody at all? Anywhere? Ever? Btw, some newer models of flushing machines attach to the trans at the pump suction port normally occupied by the filter. They make a bit of a mess but they replace all of the fluid. Every drop. How one could attach one of these flushers to the trans without first removing the pan and filter is beyond me. |
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| The reason no one does it properly is cost. After flushing the tranny with their solvent they refuse to drop the pan saying it is not necessary due to cost (and they claim the flush got everything out) . It would add more time/labor plus new filter gasket etc. and they already overcharge for the service and the customer does not wan tot pay more as well. | |
| Who's this "they" you refer to? | |
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$90 for a drop the pan, change the filter, etc. for our 93 Caravan at a Arlington, VA shop sounds good to me. A drain and refill at the dealership costs almost as much. For the Caravan, it's cheaper than a new transmission. |
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| Since in the past they have been a weak component, I drain the fluid, replace the transmission seal and filter every 15K. Since you've gone 30K I would recommend a complete flush in addition to the procedure described above. If I have full synthetic then I go 30,000. | |
| $90 is reasonable considering that Chrysler vehicles up to 1999 require the usually more expensive ATF+ (Type 7176) fluid. Btw, you should verify the fluid used, as DexronIII/Mercon may cause torque converter clutch shudder and/or deteriorated shift quality. | |
| Not all pans are on the bottom. The Nissans (we have/had) were on the top. The Ford I have has it on the side. Neither has a replacable, paper/fiber element filter, but a screen instead. I don't think the screen can be reached in either trans without a fair amount of disassembly (I know the Nissan can't). For transmissions like this, that have neglected fluid, a chemical flush is probably in order. When a flush agent is used the drive wheels should be off the ground, and the transmission shifted through all the gears so all the solvent gets to all the parts of the trans. For DIY types, who don't have a flush machine, try putting 4 - 6 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in the trans a few days before having a complete fluid exchange done. The MMO has a "gentle", slow acting solvent that will disolve the varnish. I wouldn't do this if only a drain and refill was being done. (I actually did the MMO on a 10 year old Maxima with 40k city miles and the shifting was quicker after a couple of days. Did a full fluid exchange after 3 days. Now with synthetic ATF and an added cooler, the trans doesn't get "mushy" after sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, in the middle of summer with the AC on.) | |
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