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Transmission fluid change-which method is better? ![]()

99 messages, Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM
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Look at the owner's manual and I really doubt if this is called for. Sounds like to me the dealer is making an assult on your BIL's wallet. I wish someone would try that stunt on me-love to yank their chains. Sadly there are thieves out there-I would not go to these people again. They might do damage to the vehicle in order to generate additional income. Slashing CV boots is high on this list. Regarding Honda ATF-got a tranny code at around 70K-turns out my fluid was a bit burnt and discolored. Changed the ATF using honda fluid and reset the CEL and no problems 60K later. Would suggest changing ATF every 30 to 35K. I think mine requires about 2.8 quarts. You will need one of those funnel things with a long clear tube attached to pour the ATF into the ATF dip/fill hole. Oh and drive it at least 30 miles to get the ATF good and hot. Be very careful when removing the drain plug-that fluid gets extremely hot and can fry your skin. I wear protective gloves and am very careful-it really squirts out. Changing atf is easier than changing oil. |
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| Sounds like you didn't finish the job. Check your owners manual for total capacity. You normally have almost half the fluid in the torque converter. If your fluid was burnt it may indicate a problem or at the very least you need to drain and fill with running the vehicle in between to get most of the fluid out. Alternative is to do a flush as has been previously mentioned here. | |
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1. drop the pan/ open the drain plug 2. drain the fluid. 3. close the pan / drain plug 4. Start the engine 5. shift through gears 6. drop the pan/ open the drain plug * I assume most of the fluid from the Torque convertor must have now been pumped into the gear area * 7. drain the fluid. 8. change the filter 9. reseal the pan / drain plug 10. Start the engine 11. add ATF through the ATF dipstick hole Anything wrong with this method? |
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Plenty. The trans pump picks up fluid from the pan then sends it to the hydraulic system (main pressure regulator), which in turn supplies the converter pressure feed. With no fluid in the pan there's nothing for the pump to pump, no hydraulic pressure developed, and nothing forced into the converter to push the old fluid out. Also, shifting into gear with virtually no fluid pressure will allow clutch/band slippage. |
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Had the filter (metal frame holding a fine mesh/nylon screen), and fluid changed today in my Camry. The last time the filter was changed and pan dropped was at 25,000 when I switched it to synthetic ATF. Changed the fluid every 30,000 via a drain and fill (has a drain plug) since and now at 143,000 decided it was time to drop the pan. 118,000 since last filter change. So, filter had caught very little contaminants, a few specs of debris here and there but basically clean. Now, the magnets (3 of them in the pan) were all covered with debris, more like thick oil and pan was basically clean. From what I could see into the transmission after removing the filter it looked really clean, no varnish, no build up of any kind, clean metal and whatever else was used. However, based upon the debris on the magnets it was due for a clean out. In the future, if ever done again I will just drop pan and clean magnets. The screen was a waste of time and money. Been using Amsoil synthetic ATF since 25,000 miles on transmission. |
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| the magnets perform a valuable service, picking up all the little flash, wear, machining, and oopsie steel that the transmission had in it. these little knives didn't get a chance to slit the filter, get in the clutch plates or the valve body, and foul things up. really ought to brush and flush these iron filings off the magnets... either in or out of the pan.. to insure you have done a complete job. I seem to remember the old GM '76 shop manual I had with my Buick insisted on that step. | |
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| I always put four in when I drop the pan the first time. My 97 Explorer had one (plastic sheet magnet) installed I guess from the factory and added even more. These catch the really fine particles that a filter won't pick up. I like the ceramic ones that they sell (Radio Shack). They loose their effectiveness as the material builds up so it is wise to clean them. They clean the oil mostly when you are parked over night. There is a lot of turbulence in the pan that they can not compete with. I dropped a pan one time and found 3 needle bearings in the filter. Quite a flow to suck them up. | |
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My system has been to have the pan dropped, the filter replaced, and the torque converter rotated and drained at the first service (about 25,000 miles). At 50,000 miles I have the flush done, then back to the pan drop at 75,000, and so on. I've done that on my last two cars and it seems to strike a balance between getting all of the fluid out and getting the filter replaced from time to time. I got 108,000 out of a Windstar before the engine gave up, but no trouble with the transmission. I have 135,000 on an Explorer on the original transmission, no troubles there either (I even pull a 2,000 pound trailer with it from time-to-time). I plan to stay with that system until it lets me down. |
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My local GM dealer uses the BG PF5 for Transmission Flushing with Synthetic ATF. http://www.bgprod.com/autodrive.html Anyone have any experiences with it? How well does it work? They recommend the service every 25K and they drop the pan/change the filter at 50K and 100K. Price quoted is $119 per flush, and they'll throw in the pan drop/filter change for free at the 50K and 100K service. |
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| 3 weeks ago bought a new 2002 camry. Was there when they did the dealer prep. When he checked the ATF after it had been driven a few miles it was still at the cold level. He added some fluid(I don't think it was more than 1/2 quart) to get it up to the hot level. When he checked it was at the first notch of the hot level so I said leave it there since I though it might go up a little more since it had not been driven that far. I then noticed he was using Shell dexron II III ATF. I then went to the parts department and bought some Toyota ATF which also said Dexron II III so I thought every thing was OK. When I got home and looked at my owners manual it said use only T-IV ATF. I called the dealer(50 miles away) and asked if this would hurt my car. The parts man didn't know about T-IV fluid and transferred me to the service department and he didn't know anything about T-IV fluid, but said he didn,t think it would hurt the car . He said I might want to change the fluid at 15,000 miles to be safe. I told them to check on it and let me know. Didn't hear anything from them so I called Toyota customer to ask them if it would hut my car, but the lady couldn't provide any useful information. Then I called the dealer owner and he said he would check on it. He had his customer service man call me, and after he investigated he said they poured the T-IV out of big jugs(I checked and these are 4 liter containers or a little over a gallon) into the quart Shell containers. He also said the man I talked to in service was the assistant and hadn't been briefed on the T-IV. So they aren't going to admit that they put the wrong fluid in my car. So my question is still will putting about 1/2 quart of dexron in my camry do any damage. Even if I drain it it will only get out half the AFT. I think it has a drain plug so they won't have to pull the pan. Any information on this problem will be appreciated. | |
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