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Transmission fluid change-which method is better? - READ ONLY

99 messages,  Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM

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What is this discussion about? Transmission


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#55 of 99
Honda ATF Change by bburton1
May 06, 2002 (8:17 am)
The owners manual says change ATF at 90K-much too long IMHO. I change at 30K now after getting a tranny code on the CEL at 70K. ATF was burnt and I only do highway driving.
 
One of these days will try to change all the atf by disconnecting the hot side of the ATF cooler and connecting it to a large clear plastic bottle and while running the engine, attempt to put new atf into it at about the same rate as it flows into the jug connected to the atf cooler inlet. Have had a couple of different people suggest this approach.
 
For those people using the machines to change atf-ever wonder how much of their cleaning solvent remains in your tranny-something to think about-betcha it don't meet any atf standard anywhere.
#56 of 99
instead of pouring into air bubbles at the filler... by swschrad
May 06, 2002 (5:56 pm)
why not put a hose nipple on a plastic bucket, put it on top of a ladder, run clear hose to the LP side (aka pump suction) of the tranny, and use the pump itself to do the fluid changing? when the hose suddenly isn't red at the top any more, shut the key off in gear so you don't airlock the pump, and connect everything back up.
 
you're going to spill/squirt ATF no matter what you do, so you will want a nice bed of absorbent underneath, and have a place scoped out that can take it for proper disposal.
 
every time I have to try and get liquid down one of those danged skinny "filler necks," I get an airlock from a bubble and lose about half the quart of fluid, anyway. seems like this would be a better resolution.
 
warning, I bet that bucket will empty quickly under pump suction, have somebody atop the ladder ready to yell "look OUT!" when they can almost see the bucket bottom.
#57 of 99
RE: Follow Up, armtdm by sinjin_dog
May 07, 2002 (11:35 am)
About 10 month ago, I had my local Toyota dealer flush transmission oil at an expense of $109.
After the change, my Previa will make big clunk sound as soon as I let the brake go from a stop to go.
Did not know what it was, but check the transmission oil level. It was way above upper part of
hot level. I drained it and about 4.3 quarts came out. The manual calls out 2.5 quart capacity.
The moral of story, the thunking sound disapeared and convinced that this particular bad dealer did overfilled. Be cautious.
#58 of 99
Overdrive mode does notwork after replacing the AT unit on Mazda 929 by sushko
May 08, 2002 (8:55 am)
Anybody knows what can cause the following problem: after the new (52kmiles old) transmission unit has been installed on my 1993 Mazda 929 the overdrive mode does not want to work.
 
The following is observed:
 
1. I can not fix the “HOLD” button on the AT shifter in neither ON or OFF position
 
2. The “HOLD” sign on the indicator blinks.
 
3. When I drive the car, the engine does not shift to the 4-th (overdrive) gear.
 
4. After resetting computer the symptoms 1 and 2 disappear, but only temporarily -- until the car moves a few meters. Then it all (symptoms 1, 2 and 3 combined) starts over again.
 
Probably, the problem is not a mechanical in origin but rather a failure of some electrical circuits. Mechanic who replaced the tranny has already inspected visually all the electrical connections of the transmission unit but did not find anything wrong.
 
Anyone can help here?
 
Thanks a lot!
#59 of 99
Overdrive mode does notwork after replacing the AT unit on Mazda 929 by sushko
May 08, 2002 (8:57 am)
Anybody knows what can cause the following problem: after the new (52kmiles old) transmission unit has been installed on my 1993 Mazda 929 the overdrive mode does not want to work.
 
The following is observed:
 
1. I can not fix the “HOLD” button on the AT shifter in neither ON or OFF position
 
2. The “HOLD” sign on the indicator blinks.
 
3. When I drive the car, the engine does not shift to the 4-th (overdrive) gear.
 
4. After resetting computer the symptoms 1 and 2 disappear, but only temporarily -- until the car moves a few meters. Then it all (symptoms 1, 2 and 3 combined) starts over again.
 
Probably, the problem is not a mechanical in origin but rather a failure of some electrical circuits. Mechanic who replaced the tranny has already inspected visually all the electrical connections of the transmission unit but did not find anything wrong.
 
Anyone can help here?
 
Thanks a lot!
#61 of 99
When by joe3891
May 09, 2002 (8:15 am)
you start moving the VSS sensor is suppose to kick in,letting the computer know you are moving.If the computer thinks the car isn't moving it gets confused.I would scan it and see what codes are.
#62 of 99
You may have to physically check connectors by zr2rando
May 09, 2002 (3:13 pm)
I had a loose connection on 1 pin in a 4-pin connector to my fuel tank. You may want to verify that all connectors are tight and no pins are loose inside the connectors,,,sometimes just jiggling the connector will find the problem,,that's what I had to do in my case..
good luck
hint: just work with 1 connector at a time
see ya
#63 of 99
So what's the going cost to get a Trans fluid flush? by glenn43
May 11, 2002 (11:49 am)
I live in Maryland. Anyone used any service center for BG products?
#64 of 99
Aluminum transmission pan by larieb
May 17, 2002 (12:12 pm)
I am going with an oversize aluminum finned transmission pan for my 5.4 liter ford van , I liked the idea about putting a magnet to pick up small metallic shavings , I am considering Epoxing a magnet to the bottom inside of pan but am concerned about after a while the transmission fluid eating away the epoxy and maybe magnet obstructing fiter somehow , any ideas or comments ... thanks Larry

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