Sign In Join 



Transmission fluid change-which method is better? - READ ONLY

99 messages,  Last post on Jul 10, 2002 at 6:37 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

This discussion is ARCHIVED. To reactivate the discussion, post a request in the Lost? Ask the M&R Host for directions! discussion.

What is this discussion about? Transmission


Messages Page 9 of 10
1
...
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#80 of 99
Overkill by armtdm
Jun 10, 2002 (5:03 am)
10K on the tranny. Wow a glutton for punishment. I have a 92 Camry with 145,000. Fluid switched to synthetic at 25,000 with the filter/screen changed. Fluid changed every 30,000 (drain and fill) and filter was again changed (didn't need to but replaced it as after inspection it was fine), only the magnets needed to be cleaned at 142,000. No tranny issues either. I go 7,500 on oil and filter using synthetic. Went 15,000 once but oil analysis was not good.
#81 of 99
dwbehrens by rubicon52
Jun 11, 2002 (4:54 pm)
On your Toyotas does the tranmission drain plug have a gasket like the oil drain plug? If not, how can you be sure the transmission drain plug doesn't leak after you replace the drain plug?
#82 of 99
No gasket by armtdm
Jun 12, 2002 (3:29 am)
Slightly different type of plug but no gasket. I put a little gasket sealer on the very back end of the plug but for some reason the plugs where you need a allen head type of socket to remove do not seem to leak. Oil pan plugs whre you use a wrench or socket wrench are more prone to leaks.
#83 of 99
Fluid change on a pan-less/filter-less slushbox... by irishalchemist
Jun 12, 2002 (7:12 am)
I usually post in the 626 board, but this one is related to tranny upkeep. As many of you are aware, the L4 626 from 95 has a CD4E (Ford) tranny with no pan to drop and no filter to change (unless you want to take it out of the car, remove the valve assemblies, etc., etc.). Although Ford says that the CD4E required no maintenance, this is pretty much BS. The only solution is the complete flush machines or the 'two-bucket' method.
 
Now, I have been warned that if a tranny has not been serviced for a long time (I have 80K on mine, bought it at 68K, so I think it has 80K with no service), doing a flush may screw things up. Thus, I opted for a less stressful solution. I sucked 2.5 quarts of the old fluid through the dipstick, and added 2.5 quarts of new fluid. I will dirve the car for a day, and then repeat this 4 or 5 times. By then, 80% of the fluid will be new. My idea is that if the detergents in the new fluid are dislodging crap from the tranny, it will not be as dramatic as if I did it all at once, and I would also be removing some of the junk with every drain/refill.
 
My plan is that after I do this and I have given the tranny time to 'adjust' to having new fluid, I will do a regular complete 'two-bucket' flush.
 
I know that it sounds really cumbersome, but is it a reasonable thing to do? Any comments and words of wisdom will be welcomed.
 
G.
#84 of 99
What did the fluid look like that you got out? by armtdm
Jun 12, 2002 (9:29 am)
#85 of 99
Instead of changing every 15K, by adc100
Jun 12, 2002 (9:31 am)
I would go with synthetic oil. I'v had two Corsicas where I switched to syn after about 24K. I changed about every 30-40K. One vehicle had 130K and the other 70K with no problems.
 
rubiconno gasket. I just torque them to 20 ft lbs-get the torque value for yours. (20 should be OK though) Believe me, it won't come loose.
#86 of 99
Fluid color... by irishalchemist
Jun 12, 2002 (10:29 am)
armtdm, they fluid was darker that what I wanted it to be. A dark red-orange, and smelled a bit acrid (I know new ATF isn't the most beautiful smelling thing, but...). A friend here at work looked at the little bottle I had with a sample and said "looks burnt to me..." I'm fearing that this means the tranny is toast but it just doesn't know it yet and it is still going. By the way, the tranny does everything it is suposed to do when it comes to shifting, kicking down, going to over-drive, locking up in fourth gear, etc., etc.
 
G.
#87 of 99
Which ATF by bburton1
Jun 12, 2002 (10:29 am)
For what it is worth-had a couple of friends have major tranny problems after having their ATF changed at a quick oil change place-one used syn and don't know what the other used but both their DC mini vans tranny's died after less than 5K after the change. Be a pioneer if you feel brave but I would use the ATF in the owners manual. Nah Honda, GM, Ford and DC don't make ATF but they have engineers that design trannies and I would pay attention to their suggested ATF. DC ATF is real pricey but cheap compared to a new tranny.
#88 of 99
ATF Fluid color by bburton1
Jun 12, 2002 (10:31 am)
Had a CEL come on with a tranny code 70K on a 97 accord-check the ATF and it was dark and smelled burnt. Changed the ATF every 30K now and at 134K and no more CEL and no tranny problems.
 
I suggest changing every 30K-the Honda owners manual says change at 90K except in extreme conditions. I do all highway driving and thought this would not cause the ATF to over heat-wrong.
#89 of 99
I tried synthetic tranny fluid by wtd
Jun 12, 2002 (6:57 pm)
in my 98 chevy truck and started to get some slippage so I switched back to conventional fluid.

Messages Page 9 of 10
1
...
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement