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Jeep Liberty Diesel

11441 messages,  Last post on Mar 24, 2013 at 6:40 AM

You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum.

What is this discussion about? Jeep Liberty, Biodiesel, Diesel, SUV

Messages Page 993 of 1145

#9914 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [siberia] by hobjr

Feb 28, 2008 (4:12 pm)

Replying to: siberia (Feb 27, 2008 5:44 am)
Hope this information helps -
 
Error codes were: P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor Positive
P0101 - MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor signal neg./pos.
 
They also referenced a Technical Service Bulletin TSB 21105
 
They have followed the list of actions recommended; with the next being replacing the Turbocharger. They are getting 15 lbs vacuum at idle, but he could not tell me if it drops / increases upon acceleration. They have not made any checks on the EGR nor tried reflashing the system to see if it changes.
 
He has ruled out a fuel issue only because of past experience with Diesels. Most CRD problems have been EGR related, but the troubleshooting process for the first code did not include any related checks.
 
They are actually now awaiting some feedback from me as to the suggestions you have with these codes. This vehicle has had 2 EGR changes, but it was not a similar symptom. They have reflashed it as well several times.
 
Each time before a check engine light would come on (and the light is on this time, too), but the problem was a significant amount of smoke at the exhaust , but no noticable power lost. This time it is reversed - a little smoke and no power / significant surging with acceleration.
 
still looking for HELP!!!

#9915 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [hobjr] by mdamick

Feb 28, 2008 (8:00 pm)

Replying to: hobjr (Feb 28, 2008 4:12 pm)
I just checked my CRD.
At idle the turbo boost valve pulls 17" Hg measured with a vacuum gauge
Idle boost is about 25" Hg with max around 68" Hg measured with a scan tool
I do not remember if I blocked the valve or tied it direct to vacuum but around 70" Hg it will set a code.
You have not indicated the mileage, but you should also check the BOOST/IAT sensor. If it is plugged up it won't detect the boost and would keep the fuel flow low which would also keep the boost from building up.
Mine was rather garbaged up at less than 50000 mi.

#9916 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [hobjr] by nescosmo

Feb 28, 2008 (10:33 pm)

Replying to: hobjr (Feb 27, 2008 5:12 pm)
Black smoke EGR sticking, what you have to do is:
 
1 clean your Map sensor
2 take your Maf sensor and unpluged it, it will give you a light but that is ok. What this do is that will disable your EGR valve and keep you FCV open all the time. This is call ORM. Take it for a ride to see if it work ok. If it does then you wll have to do the SEGR and all your problem will go away for ever.

#9917 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [hobjr] by nescosmo

Feb 28, 2008 (11:03 pm)

Replying to: hobjr (Feb 28, 2008 4:12 pm)
In another note code 299 is Map sensor dirty or bad.
If cleaning it do not do the job then replace it . Price went up 3 month ago.

#9918 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [nescosmo] by arvman

Feb 29, 2008 (8:55 am)

Replying to: nescosmo (Feb 28, 2008 11:03 pm)
absolutely right.I clean mine every 4 months or so,a toothbrush and some brake cleaner.also bleed the fuel filter monthly.once warranty is up will do some mods.

#9919 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [nescosmo] by butchman

Mar 03, 2008 (12:20 pm)

Replying to: nescosmo (Feb 28, 2008 10:33 pm)
Nescosmo, in your message under #2, where you say unplug Maf sensor. What does ORM and SEGR stand for?
Thanks!

#9920 of 11441 Two questions by mike6206

Mar 03, 2008 (7:14 pm)

So far, after last year having the CRD in for warranty work which included replacing the EGR valve, F37, etc. I have had no other problems with my CRD except for one. We've just went through alot of cold weather here and the old problem I had last year has come back, being that the fuel likes to back out in one big hurry after the pump clicks off when the tank is full. It acts like there is a blockage in the filler or tank vent because the fuel goes down in "glugs" like a blocked vent. Has anyone had this problem and is there a solution to keep this from happening?
 
Also, I noticed that some are changing their oil at 5000-6200 miles. I started the 12,000 change routine at 36,010 and I still use the Mobil Delvac 1 (a.k.a Turbo Diesel Pickup) synthetic in 5w40. I do no towing, just regular highway driving. Good or bad?

#9921 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [butchman] by nescosmo

Mar 03, 2008 (11:51 pm)

Replying to: butchman (Mar 03, 2008 12:20 pm)
ORM means Off Road Modification.
 
and SEGR is a board that you buy and what it does is to Keep the engine light off the dash board and keep the egr valve disable so your engine run better cleaner and use less fuel.
To find out about this you have to go to L.O.S.T forum and search there for it.
right now they are getting peaple together for another sell.
You have to assemble the board or have some of the guy do that for you for small amount of money I been using one for the last 4k and ever since my issues are over. It runs so well that you would not believe it. Go and talk to the guys they will sent you up.
 
nescosmo.

#9922 of 11441 Re: Jeep Liberty CRD Problem [nescosmo] by caribou1

Mar 04, 2008 (1:21 am)

Replying to: nescosmo (Mar 03, 2008 11:51 pm)
Nescosmo,
If DC had not been forced to install the fancy EGR system you have, this forum would not have survived long. Apart from recent poor quality labor, my truck is as good as new after 5 years of threatening experiences
It squeaks, rattles, doesn't really give good mileage but I wouldn't change it for a new one. I was lucky to buy the "de-rated" model where the computer doesn't know anything about the engine
The only hiccups generated by the computer concern the lights that sometimes stay on To avoid this I don't change anything while the engine is being turned off. I do it before or after.

#9923 of 11441 Re: Two questions [mike6206] by zachinmi

Mar 04, 2008 (12:37 pm)

Replying to: mike6206 (Mar 03, 2008 7:14 pm)
If your driving is all highway, you may be OK with 12000 mile oil changes. But unless you disconnected the EGR (aka the "ORM") I personally wouldn't go past 7-8k even if all highway driving. If it's not all highway driving I would change at 6200 miles (which is what I did) or even a bit less. The oil you're using is good, but since DCX required synthetic anyway, it doesn't mean you can do longer oil changes in this vehicle. And the EGR is recirculating a lot of gas at normal highway speeds, putting soot into the oil.
 
Did I mention that my diesel farm tractor, which has no EGR of any kind, had clear-as-new oil when changed for the first time at 110 hours / 12 months of use? EGR puts a lot of soot in the oil.

Messages Page 993 of 1145

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