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#3 of 17 You know, I was just thinking about this......
May 18, 2003 (9:13 pm)
How some folks must think I never agree that any product works, but man......
There are no quick fix chemicals.
Plain and simple. You know that saying, "If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is."?
Fix the problem, then there are some things that can help. Most of them are mechanical, not chemical.
May 19, 2003 (6:53 am)
Those chemicals work to a point, I've used them and certainly you see it used a lot in vintage racing...BUT...it's NOT going to cure a bad problem. If your radiator or cooling fan or thermostat or whatever is malfunctioning, all you'll do is take a little longer to heat up your coolant. I think it's best application might be for cooling systems already in good order but which perhaps are under-engineered for short bursts of extreme use.
I think the claim of a 40 degree drop in coolant is reckless advertising.
#5 of 17 40 degrees is bunk,
May 19, 2003 (7:20 am)
but I've used Redline's Water Wetter (in an independent test when I was with Super Shops) and noted a 10-15 degree drop.
I'm sure there's some alcohol to its base substance...and it seemed to work OK. For $6, not a bad deal.
It's never claimed to be a miracle cure and I know many racers who use the stuff in drag racing since you can't use any type of coolant at the race tracks.
#6 of 17 Re: Fan, Rad Grill
May 19, 2003 (7:38 am)
Fan is nice and tight. Turns by hand with tension, and when you stop turning your hand, the fan stops too.
I'll hose the rear of the radiator like you said, swschrad. I've brushed the front clear regularly, but I never knocked the impacted stuff forward like you say. Harder to reach back there, so "outta sight, outta mind". Probably all kinds of nice things wedged up in there!
May 19, 2003 (8:37 am)
Yep, Redline Water Wetter is a good product. I used it in my Alfa because I was heating up a bit climbing mountain passes in summer and it seemed to keep things under control. But I never had an overheating problem that I was trying to cure, only used Water Wetter for a little more slack.
May 19, 2003 (8:52 am)
just figured if I lowered the temps at the manifold and heads, that 5-10 degrees might add .02 hp - who knows....anything for more power!
#9 of 17 Primary intent
May 19, 2003 (8:58 am)
Is not to mix these products (Water Wetter or the others) with coolant. They are most effective in plain water which is not practical for the every day driver. I have used both and, saw no difference but I did not actually measure the temp. Saw no diff in the temperature gauge.
May 19, 2003 (2:42 pm)
I don't think the objective of these additives is to lower the temperature of normal running cars at normal temperatures. They seem to work best under stress and higher temperatures (to a point).
Actually, I don't know how they work exactly, come to think of it.
May 21, 2003 (6:53 am)
Rline WW works by decreasing the surface tension on steam bubbles that form in hot spots in heads.
The steam acts like an insulator so the coolant cannot absorb the heat from the spot. Bubble burster. Nucleate boiling is the term.
Actually WW may increase the coolant temp ecu sensor reading because it reads coolant outflow from the head [absorb more heat, the coolant temp goes up] but the radiator becomes more efficient due to higher differential temp [hotter input], thus the rad OUTPUT may be slightly lower than without WW........need to read input and output [back to engine to learn exactly how much]
WW Works primarily by lowering the overall head temperatures which results in less detonation.
Aluminum heads conduct heat to coolant faster than iron [why they can run higher static compression ratio].
After all the head temperature [combustion chamber temperature] is what's important not the coolant temperature READING.......assuming you have enough pressure to keep from boiling in rad.
The less % AF you can use [and still have some corrosion protection] the more heat the coolant [water] can absorb from head and transport to rad, thus the higher efficiency the rad can operate at.
Following for HOST:
Depending on head design, composition, ambient and power output don't expect RR WW to always lower the coolant temperature the ecu temp sensor sees.............sometimes you need to trick the sensor/ecu 3,4,5,6,7F [trim the sensor resistance curve to avail yourself of the full benefits].......some [all] ecu go into summer protective mode [progressive advance reduction] when coolant exceeds 195F[Nissan]-200-205F [Ford 210F]reading. ALFA [?].
Jun 06, 2003 (9:57 pm)
thanks that was very interesting!