Last post on Mar 08, 2013 at 8:59 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Silverado 1500, Chevrolet Silverado 2500, Chevrolet Silverado 3500, GMC Sierra 1500, GMC Sierra 2500, GMC Sierra 3500, Truck
#122 of 259 Re: 05 silverado vibration [jhawkes2]
Jun 12, 2008 (4:50 pm)
i have the same problem as you,any luck fixing it?
#123 of 259 Re: 1998 Silverado with vibration..... [kyhiker65]
Jun 30, 2008 (8:31 pm)
It seems we may have the same problem, with no solution in sight. I have a 2006 1500 Z-71 4x4. When I hit my breaks and/or railroad tracks at any speed, I feel a slight vibration underfoot and in the steering wheel and quickly moves through the whole vehicle growing in intensity until the front-end tires are bouncing off the road and you feel like at any minute you could fly off the road. While you're in this bouncing around, I slow down to 25 to 30 mph to get it to stop. I've replaced front rotors and breaks, rear drums and breaks. I have 20 inch rims: they're 275-55-20 Perrelli Scorpions with "road force balancing." It's got 60,000 miles on it. It is at a point now that I am afriad to have my wife drive my truck because of what could happen. Fortunately, I still have warranty left, just a little concerned they will think I am crazy. Feel free to share ANY information, good or bad, that I can use to correct the problem.
#124 of 259 06 Sierra Z71 Front End Grinding/Rattle
Jul 07, 2008 (5:03 pm)
The truck is a 2006 5.3L single cab Z71 with 60,000 miles on it. About 2 months ago I noticed a rattling/tinging metallic sound coming from the front left wheel area while driving at low speeds. 2 weeks ago I was driving at 50mph and a loud rubbing/grinding noise started coming from the same area. Almost sounded like the tire was rubbing the fender. The noise comes and goes. It will drive fine for a couple of days and then the noise comes again. It sometimes sounds worse than others. It does it at all speeds. I have carried it to the dealer 2 times and the truck wasnt making the noise when I got there. They say they can't work on it if it isn't doing something major. Applying brakes does not affect the noise. Sometimes it sounds like the whole front drivetrain is about to lock up. The noise sounds like it is in sync with 1/2 of a wheel rotation. I am not comfortable with driving the truck when it does this. My first thought would be a wheel bearing, but wouldnt a bad bearing cause the noise to happen all the time? Any help is appreciated.
#125 of 259 Re: REAR END CLUNK/GRUNT [brian04]
Jul 12, 2008 (10:13 am)
My truck just started acting up again. It made a loud squalling sound from the left front wheel....sounds like brake pads are worn out now. But it is definitely in the brakes. I am going to replace pads next week and see what happens.
Sep 16, 2008 (4:13 pm)
I just purchased a 2004 Sierra Club Cab, seems like a nice truck however I have a clunking sound during auto shift from 1st to 2nd etc, also on take off. Repair shop states no problem found, anyone with similar problem??Thanks
#127 of 259 Re: Clunk [don14813]
Sep 16, 2008 (4:27 pm)
Driveline - Bump/Clunk/Squawking Noises
Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B
Date: January 05, 2005
Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke)
This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).
Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft
^ Knock or Clunk Noise
^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001
^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042
^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.
Follow the service procedure below.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.
Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.
3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.
4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.
5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.
Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.
6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.
7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.
10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.
13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.
14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.
18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.
30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.
31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.
32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft).
33. Lower the vehicle
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
#128 of 259 Crackling noise.
Sep 19, 2008 (7:15 pm)
I just got a 2003 Chevy 2500HD LT that is in near new condition (30,000 miles) on the way home I started to hear this crackling noise that seems to be from the upper driverside of the windshield.???? The truck has a bug guard and on-star ant. and I'm wondering if that is where the noise is comming from. Could the windshield be loose?
#129 of 259 Re: Crackling noise. [rabown]
Sep 19, 2008 (8:00 pm)
Could the windshield be loose?
That has been a common problem caused by the bug deflector. Buy some window sealant from Checkers and reseal the windshield.
#130 of 259 Re: 06 Sierra Z71 Front End Grinding/Rattle [gmcman815]
Sep 22, 2008 (6:16 pm)
Did you ever find out what this was? I have the exact same problem with my 03 4X4. I've replaced the front wheel bearing assembly and that wasn't it. Any help wil be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Todd
#131 of 259 Popping Noise Near Center Floorboard Hump
Sep 23, 2008 (7:14 am)
I have a 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (RWD Ext Cab/5.3 V8) and started to notice a popping noise in the vicinity of the center floorboard hump. The rate of the pop doesn't increase or decrease with the engine RPMs and it doesn't increase or decrease when the truck is in gear, parked, or being driven. I opened the hood to see if the noise could be heard from the engine compartment and I listened from underneath the truck, but did not hear anything. Anyone have the same or similar problem?