Last post on Aug 03, 2012 at 5:02 PM
You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler Town and Country, Dodge Caravan, Exterior, Van
#223 of 411 Re: similar question [basline11]
Nov 12, 2009 (9:21 am)
The BCM on this vehicle IS sick, and replacing it with the new BCM worked fine.... except for the remote keys not working.
If there is an easy way to "re-synch" the remote to the car I would love to try that, send along instructions. Or is this something only the dealer can do?
#224 of 411 2006 Grand Caravan
Dec 14, 2009 (7:16 am)
The drives side power door only closes about half way. Any suggestion on what would cause that.
#225 of 411 Re: 2006 Grand Caravan [os6352]
Dec 14, 2009 (7:37 am)
Partial opening or closing of the door is most porbably caused by a broken wire in the harness that runs along with the door. Not sure if your harness for the GC is in the lower or upper track. The harness connects at the van body at the front of the door opening and at near the arm on the door. I had the same issue in my '05 T&C. Pulled out the harness, found the damage and spliced in a new piece. Good luck.
#226 of 411 Re: similar question [jdebbins]
Dec 14, 2009 (8:06 am)
I fixed this problem. What I did was go back to the boneyard and find a 1998 vehicle, and pulled the BCM out of that, the part numbers ALMOST matched... 62AD versus the original 62AE which was sick... but close enough. Every feature now worked perfectly, and the key remote worked too!!! Go figure. But all is well.
I also replaced right power door lock latch (little clutch on mechanism wears out, these should be tested with 12V battery first, if it sounds like something spinning, the clutch is worn, mechanism no good). Find one that just goes clunk/clunk like lock/unluck, I pulled 3 of them to get one good one.
#227 of 411 2008 Dodge Caravan manual door off bottom track
Dec 26, 2009 (10:44 am)
Does anyone know how to get the door back on the track? There is a rocking mechanism with two horizontal rubber wheels and one vertical wheel. I can get the first horizontal wheel in the track and start the vertical wheel, but am having difficulty getting the back wheel in. This happened to us once before and when it went in it went all at once, but we didn't see how it went. Does anyone have any ideas?
#228 of 411 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Window Regulator Problems
Dec 27, 2009 (7:19 pm)
I have had window regulator problems on my 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan over the past 4-5 years. Initially, they were intermittent problems going up and down but became fixed problems later. I have replaced both the driver side and the passenger side motor/regulator assemblies.
The local Dodge dealership quoted me a little over $400 dollars to replace one side.
If you need to replace the motor regulators then order the following Dorman (aftermarket) solutions:
741-823 (Drivers Side)
741-824 (Passenger Side)
I purchased these from Amazon. They seem to have the cheapest prices. Free shipping is a plus.
I have broke the white retainer clips inside the doors numerous times, the Dodge part # is - 6505292-AA. I found these clips in bulk at www.clipsandfasteners.com (P/N: A19386). Much cheaper than going through the dealership.
Also, I found this website that does a pretty good job showing you how to remove the door assemblies. See the following link:
Hope this helps. Thanks.
#229 of 411 Re: 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan Power door issue [squishy]
Dec 29, 2009 (7:42 am)
Our power slide door would only open a few inches with my 2005 GC SXT and found this forum looking for a solution. Like other posts have said there is a broken wire in the flexible plastic wiring track to the door.
This is how I fixed it
- What you need: Philips #2 Screwdriver - Small Flat Screwdiver - Wire Stripper and your choice of something to join the wire together (I used a insulated crimp wire connector that will take a 14/16 Gauge wire).
- Open the side door to the full open position.
- Use the Philips screwdriver to remove the cover (attached with 2 screws) to the power door motor.
- Remove the wire bundle from the guide on the motor to give you enough slack to work with the wires.
- I flexed the bundle of wires until the hazard lights started flashing like they would when the door was working properly (this may or may not work for you). That gave me an idea where the wire was broken. Our wire was broken about 2-4" away from the motor close to where the wire starts to enter the flexible plastic track. Our broken wire was the largest of the wires in the bundle it did not appear to have a colored line on the wire. It was also a clean break almost through all the insulation.
- If necessary - use the flat screwdriver to carefully pry the link on both sides of the plastic track to allow you to move it side to side to either inspect the wire or to work on it .. If your wire is broken further down the wiring track. It easily snaps back together so just be careful on removal and don't worry too much about this step.
- Once you've located the break - Strip about 1/4 inch from each side of the wire and join it together with the insulated crimping connector (make sure it's fully inserted) or you can solder a piece of wire (It appears to be a #16 gauge threaded wire) - make sure no wire is exposed after your fix (tape or use heat shrink tubing).
- Snap back any links and re-insert the wire bundle into guide the bottom of the motor. Screw back the motor cap.
Your door should now be fully operational again and shouldn't cost you more that $1 to fix and an hour of your time.
Hope this helps.
#230 of 411 2007 DGC Power Window Problem
Jan 04, 2010 (7:52 am)
The power window on the passenger side of my wife's 2007 DGC stopped working back in the summer. I finally got around to pulling the door panel off this past weekend, fulling expecting to have to remove and replace the window regulator.
I used a battery charger to apply +12V directly to the motor. I could hear it hum, but there was no movement in the window. So, on a lark I removed the cable drive assembly from the motor (3 silver headed bolts). Once I pulled that away from the output gear of the motor, I again applied +12V to the motor and saw that it was working, in both directions. So, I put the cable drive drum back on the motor gear, bolted everything back together and, lo and behold, the window now works!!!
I lubricated the window track, not sure if maybe the problem was just a sticking pane of glass. I'm also wondering if maybe the cable was binding in the drum. I am leaving the door panel off for now in case the problem shows back up again.
#231 of 411 Re: 2007 DGC Power Window Problem [srs_49]
Feb 27, 2010 (1:55 pm)
When my 02 T&C driver's side electric window failed, I also removed the motor to try a no-cost fix. After cleaning the armature grooves and re-assembling w/ grease, the motor worked fine, so I felt smart. But after re-assembly it would stall going up (clicking sound). I suspect the problem isn't only the motor but increased drag in cables and pulleys and an overload ratchet slips. I found a new assembly for ~$45 on e-bay, so installed that. These motor-cable assemblies look generic, so I imagine used on many different cars, in just a few sizes. Better than my 85 Mercedes where people ask $200 for a used motor. I also found several wires with cut insulation (not broken). Someone had wrapped a little electrical tape. I wonder if a factory "repair" after someone cut the wires with a utility knife like opening a bag. I fixed w/ "liquid tape".
#232 of 411 Re: 08 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT Noise at start up [tportertexas]
Feb 27, 2010 (2:28 pm)
This question shouldn't be under windows, but I'll answer anyway. My 02 T&C also makes a sheet-metal rattling sound, only at idle, getting louder. It is worse with the blower on and also w/ AC. Totally gone above 1000 rpm. I can't locate the source using a hose to the ear. With a stethoscope, it seems to come from the AC clutch bearing, but doesn't sound like a bearing. In better weather I'll put it on ramps and take off the serpentine belt to insure.
My current hypothesis is the catalytic converter is broken, i.e. ceramic chips rattling around inside. Reasons:
1. At higher engine speeds the exhaust gas may hold the chips so they don't rattle.
2. It sounds exactly like sheet metal raps, but the heat shields are tight.
3. I read a post where a guy thought valve lifters, but no luck after replacing. I don't want another engine project, so that is not considered.
4. I had almost the same sound in my 96 Voyager 2.4L several years ago. I finally figured out it must be the catalytic converter, replaced for $200, and the noise disappeared. Also, we had barely passed emissions the time before, but with the new cat emissions were extremely low. Indeed, so near the limit I had to go to a special testing center the 2nd time (strict CA laws).
When I resolve my 02 T&C, I'll post the fix (not under Windows & Doors). Or someone replace their cat conv first and let me know.